I really didn’t know what to expect from Sarajevo.
I was apprehensive about visiting, knowing very little about the city aside from the siege of the 90′s that I vaguely remember from my childhood.
I arrived exhausted and drained. The overnight train from Zagreb had no sleeper carriages, a broken window that blasted us with a constant stream of ice cold air and a couple of Bosnian women who spent the entire night gossiping loudly. As we pulled up the train station, all I wanted to do was find my hostel and sleep.
Navigating the tram system in a daze, we had no idea if we were even going in the right direction, let alone which stop to get off at. Somehow we managed to guess correctly, arriving right in the heart of the Old Town. The smell of coffee, cigarettes and smoked kebabs filled the air as the call to prayer rang out from a nearby mosque.
Despite my lack of sleep, I was in awe.
Sarajevo felt like another world and I instantly fell in love.
Over the next three days, I came to learn just how important Sarajevo is; that it is arguably the place that defined and shaped human history in the twentieth century, more so than anywhere else.
So many of the terrible things that occurred over the last hundred years happened right here in Bosnia and Herzegovina and much of it in Sarajevo. From the collapse of empires to devastating wars, the rise of nationalism, communism, and their demise.
No event was more significant than the bullets fired on the streets of Sarajevo on 28 June 1914. The assassination of Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sofia triggered a series of events that culminated in the world’s first global war. In fact the origins of both World Wars, the Cold War and its conclusion can be traced back to the gunshots fired that day.
These days, Sarajevo can offer so much more than just bullets and bombings and there are so many things to love about this city.
Sarajevo is rich in religious diversity.
A five minute walk through the Old Town will take you past mosques, synagogues, Orthodox and Catholic churches – a mixture that frequently leads to Sarajevo being described as the Jerusalem of Europe.
Below is Sarajevo Cathedral, often used as a symbol of the city.
Sarajevo also has an amazing cafe culture.
Wander down a narrow cobblestone alleyway in the Old Town and you’ll find dozens of tiny coffee shops serving thick Bosnian coffee and plenty of bars selling the local Sarajevsko and, to my delight, cider!
However, this was probably the first time in my life that I wished I was a coffee drinker.
For once, I didn’t want to drink the cider – I wanted to sit down with a brass pot full of coffee, a small ceramic cup, some sugar cubes and a Turkish delight, mix them all together and have a life-changing experience.
Having tried the coffee in Mostar when I visited last year, I knew that there was no way I’d be able to handle it – it’s one of the richest and strongest coffees I’ve ever come across and had me retching and scrubbing at my tongue for minutes afterward.
However, I didn’t come to Sarajevo just to eat the food.
While Sarajevo may now be at peace, reminders of its violent past are never too far away.
The siege of Sarajevo in the nineties lasted for nearly four years and killed an estimated 12,000 people.
Subsequently, bullet-ridden buildings are everywhere and holes in the pavement caused by shells and later filled with red resin are scattered throughout the city. These concrete scars are labelled Sarajevo Roses due to the floral-like pattern created in the ground by the explosions.
Like the bullet holes, it’s impossible not to notice the number of cemeteries this city has.
The surrounding hillsides glimmer white in the distance, thousands of gravestones reflecting sunlight during the day and street lights at night. The tombstones carry dates noticeably clustered in the early nineties, many of the victims the same age as me.
There are far too many cemeteries for a city of this size.
Passing through one on our hike up to Yellow Fortress, Dave and I walked in silence among the white stones, stopping occasionally to read an inscription or take a photo. Like most cemeteries, it managed to be beautiful as well as somber; and like other cemeteries in Sarajevo its conspicuous position overlooking the city means that those who were killed will never be forgotten.
Reaching Yellow Fortress, which overlooks the entire city, the amount of cemeteries was even more apparent.
Dangling our feet over the edge, we spent most of the afternoon sunbathing, enjoying the gorgeous view and discussing how viable it would be to live here for a few months.
I loved my time in Sarajevo and I could have stayed for so much longer.
I think it’s safe to say that Sarajevo is now in my top five cities in Europe and will probably end up being the highlight of my entire Interrail trip.
My trip through Central and Eastern Europe was made possible by the lovely people at Interrailnet.com.
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This is one beautiful city ! I can’t wait to visit it next year and taste their cevapi and coffee :)
DebbZie recently posted..Italy: Rome At A Glance
It’s so beautiful! Will you be visiting next year?
This city looks so beautiful – I can’t believe how many graves there are though. Such a heart wrenching reminder of the violence :( (love the sausage wrap-butty though!) xx
Scarlett recently posted..The Scarlett Guide To… Handling The Three Stages Of Drunk
It’s such a beautiful city, I think you’d really like it :)
The cemeteries should not have been the higlight of your trip to Sarajevo, I personally think that it has to offer much more than its war history.
Hi Lux,
I didn’t once say that the cemeteries were a highlight of the trip. In fact, I said “These days, Sarajevo can offer so much more than just bullets and bombings and there are so many things to love about this city.”!
”Below is Sarajevo Cathedral, which is often used as a symbol of the city, its towers the main feature on the flag of Sarajevo.”
Although The Cathedral is one of the symbols of the city, it’s towers are NOT what you see on the flag of Sarajevo, those are bridge towers ;)
Glad you enjoyed our town, spread the word and come again :)
Hahaha, whoops — I nearly deleted that line too! Corrected now :)
And thank you, I’ll definitely be revisiting :)
Dear Lauren,
as you can see your text was translated and published on a very wide read website in B&H.
Thank you for so many beautiful words about my hometown.
You are welcome again, any time :)
Best,
Wow, that’s amazing! Thank you so much for letting me know!
It looks beautiful, and the history is really fascinating. I definitely need to make it here the next time I’m in that part of Europe!
Amanda recently posted..New York City: All in the Details
Yes, you do! I think you’d really like Sarajevo! :)
Lauren recently posted..Friday Food Photo: Cevapi in Sarajevo
Sarajevo looks amazing! I have been to Mostar too, but am definitely inspired now to visit the capital.
Sarah recently posted..The Not So Scary Bran Castle: Dracula’s Inspiration
I visited Mostar last year and Sarajevo is SO different! Mostar had a few too many tourists for my liking :)
I can’t say that I’ve ever imagined what Sarajevo might be like. It’s beautiful. Not what I would have pictured. Your photos made me think that I’d like to spend some time there to. It’s inviting, somehow, isn’t it?
Juliann recently posted..The Catastrophe That is Colonial Park Cemetery
I know! I had no idea what to expect before I arrived but was really surprised by how beautiful the city was.
It’s so nice to let travel remind of us of the bigger things that happened in history. I’ve gone years, at least since 2004, thinking that Franz Ferdinand was only the name of a UK rock band. Thanks for proving me wrong Lauren! Have a blast on the rest of the Interrail.
Lauren H. of Sobremesa In Spain recently posted..Gratitude. Things I’m Grateful For #5
Despite that not-so-good history, Sarajevo, I think, has improved into better place or even a tourist destination. It’s very striking that Sarajevo can offer so much more than just bullets and bombings and there are so many things to love about this city. I couldn’t agree more!
Steve recently posted..The Alluring Charm of New South Wales
Thanks for bringing me back to Sarajevo :) Not only is it a beautiful city, but the people are extremely friendly too!
Sara @ Off The Map Travels recently posted..Mixed up in Mostar
Now, that mouthwatering Saravejo dish had me hooked. How much did it cost you to buy one?
And in a scale of 1-10, how good is it? :)
Coffee and cevapi. Both look and sound amazing!
Laurence recently posted..A month in New Zealand–my perfect itinerary
Thanks for putting Sarajevo on the travel map for me – it looks beautiful. However, I think its the cevapi thats really pulling me!! Yum!
Seeing the bullet holes in buildings really puts this city’s history in perspective. It’s nice to see that it seems to be rebounding and has a bright future.
Scott – Quirky Travel Guy recently posted..Quirky Attraction: The Ava Gardner Museum
I’ve wanted to go to the Balkins for quite some time now – very jealous!
Jade – OurOyster.com recently posted..Travelling With Children – Interview With FamilyOnBikes
I’d love to go to Sarajevo for the coffee experience alone, but the beauty of your photos and the history of the city and its people are a big draw. Thanks for an insightful post about the rebirth, so to speak, of the city.
That whole part of Europe really intrigues me, and I’d love to visit and learn more. I’m glad to hear you enjoyed your time there!
Ali recently posted..What is Stopping You From Traveling?
I think you’d really like Sarajevo, Ali. And you’re so close too so there’s no excuses not to visit!
Any recommendations for a hostel in Sarajevo? Maybe a hostel with organised activities? Female travelling on my own :) Thanks
Hi Amanda!
I stayed at Hostelmills Sarajevo. It was pretty good, we liked it a lot. They had tours available… but I don’t think there were any dorms so unless you want a private room maybe not so good? :)