“You can’t go to Laos and not take the slow boat to Luang Prabang! I promise you, it will be one of the best, and most relaxing, experiences of your entire life.”
I stared at my feet, deep in thought, unwilling to commit. I had just 14 days to explore both Laos and Cambodia and I was apprehensive about spending two of those precious days sitting on a boat.
I didn’t want to waste my time.
And well, spending ten hours a day on a boat sounded kind of boring.
But after mentioning that I was going to Laos to a few people and having every single one of them excitedly order me to get myself on that slow boat, I knew it would be worth it.
It was going to be amazing.
And it was.
…For the first day at least.
Climbing on board the boat, my friends Stephy, JD, Pierre and I were surprised to find comfortable, padded seats as opposed to the hard wooden benches we’d heard some boats have.
Our day was spent just as I had hoped – chatting and playing card games, drinking Beer Lao from the bar, listening to music, writing in my diary, napping, and watching the gorgeous scenery drift past the window.
It was bliss and I was SO happy that I’d decided to take the slow boat.
After eight hours, we finally arrived in the town of Pakbeng, where we would be staying for the night. And that’s when everything started to go wrong.
It started with our hostel. I wasn’t expecting much for just $1 a night, but what we ended up with was truly appalling – filthy rooms filled with bugs, a dirty bathroom with a cold shower dribbling out brown water, and a crazy owner who refused to give anyone food unless it was the “happy” version. This was not what we were promised by the owner and it was definitely not what we wanted.
Needless to say, as soon as we arrived we were counting down the hours until we could leave again. Just to make things even more exciting, that night Stephy neglected to tell me that she sleep talks, or rather, sleep screams.
For the entire night, every 30 minutes she would wake up screaming, wailing and crying in Dutch and refused to tell me what was wrong. She’d simply laugh, turn over and fall back asleep – and then wake up screaming a few minutes later.
It certainly made for a, um, relaxing nights’ sleep.
So, when it was finally time to leave on the slow boat the next morning, I was looking forward to a restful day of mostly napping.
Due to the horrible hostel owner trying to offer us happy shakes and happy cornflakes and happy toast and happy sausages, we were late onto the boat and the only seats available were the ones on the back row. We were excited to have a little extra legroom and didn’t think for a minute that this could possibly be the worst place to be located.
We settled down, found some cushions to lie on and immediately fell asleep.
Ten minutes later I was woken up by an urgent and persistent prodding in my side from Stephy. Blearily opening my eyes, I glared at her in sleep-deprived fury as she frantically hissed,
“Ohmygod, a woman just died on our boat!”
Um, WHAT?!
Suddenly tuning into the commotion that was going on around me, I looked up and saw hundreds of horrified faces, all staring at a large object that was wrapped in blankets in the middle of the boat. I watched as two guys gingerly lifted it up and started to slowly carry it directly towards us.
Exchanging nervous glances with my friends, we stared as the two men walked past us in silence and carefully laid down this object behind our seats.
When they were finished, they slowly peeled back the blankets revealing a very frail, and very dead, old woman.
Oh my god.
As the boat erupted in chaos, with everybody whispering and gossiping and a few people crying, I could think of only one thing:
I am sat next to a corpse.
I am sat next to a corpse.
I couldn’t take my eyes off her. The skin on her face looked like leather, wrinkled and yellowy-grey, a single tear sliding down her left cheek.
I felt like I was about to throw up. Looking up, I saw her husband stumbling down the aisle. He was clutching frantically at a towel and weeping loudly and hysterically. The entire boat watched in silence as he laid down on the ground and moved over to hold his wife, moaning and whimpering quietly to himself.
This is absolutely heartbreaking… This poor guy…
I desperately wanted to get away, I wanted to get off the boat. There were six hours left until we were due to arrive in Luang Prabang and it soon became clear that I was going to be sitting next to this woman and her grieving husband for the entire time.
Oh my god, this is so awful. I can’t deal with this…
Listening to whispers around us we managed to deduce that she had died from malaria and this instantly sent my hypochondria into overdrive.
I immediately felt my chest tighten and my heart began to race as my mind replayed the events of the past few days - had I been using insect repellent? Had I been covered up? Had I been bitten?
I was suddenly convinced that I was about to die too.
I broke out in a cold sweat and felt pins and needles start spread over my entire body. I tried desperately to calm myself down by staring at my feet. My vision started to darken and I saw the floor rush towards my face as I frantically fought to remain conscious.
Somehow I managed to keep myself from fainting, but I didn’t feel any better. I spent the rest of the journey trying to calm myself down and tried desperately to take my mind off the situation.
It was a nightmare and I can only imagine what the husband was going through.
After what felt like a lifetime, we finally reached Luang Prabang.
Breathing a sigh of relief, I stood up to get my bag but as I started to move I realised that the woman was blocking the entrance to the luggage room and that every single person in the boat would have to awkwardly climb over her to get to their bags. Which they then proceeded to do.
Shuddering and trying not to think about what was happening, I grabbed my bags as quickly as I could, feeling some sense of relief sweep over me when I finally got onto dry land.
Although my terrible experience was now over, I spent much of the next 24 hours trying to deal with what had just happened. It took a very long time before the image of her lifeless face began to fade from my memory and even longer for me to stop checking my body every five seconds for symptoms of malaria…
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In July 2011 I left England for what was supposed to be a one year trip around the world. Within a few months of leaving I knew that a year would never be enough. I now work online and travel permanently, seeking misadventures in unique, beautiful and fascinating places. Read more.
I'm here to show you how not to travel. Since I've been on the road I've been "poked" during a massage in Bangkok, punched a scammer in Shanghai, been attacked by monkeys in Bali, sat next to a dead woman on a boat in Laos and so much more. I call these The Incidents and you can see a full list of them here.
Uggggh, the poor bloke :/
Anthony recently posted..Why I Feel Like a Bit of a Penis, But the Most Relieved and Happiest That I Have Felt in a Very Long Time
I know, it was heartbreaking having to listen to him crying for hours…
Ohmygod Lauren what an AWFUL experience…but you tell it so well! I’ve been waiting for this post to come out ever since you mentioned this experience….I mean….wow. 6 hours next to a dead woman? I think I’d vomit for sure.
Waegook Tom recently posted..Party Like A Geordie: Newcastle’s Best Bars
Yeah, it was definitely up there as one of the worst experiences I’ve had. But hey, it was a million times worse for the husband :(
I’d never seen a dead body before and it was really, really scary.
God, the poor guy! And, with the Lao beliefs about evil spirits, the poor boat crew, too…
Theodora recently posted..Is This Personal Ad Prostitute-y, Or Is It Me?
I know, it was horrible. I don’t know too much about the Lao beliefs but everybody was really shaken up.
What a horrible experience (for all involved)!
My question is – why wouldn’t they at least cover her face up??
Amanda recently posted..Soaking at the Szechenyi Baths
I don’t know, I was really confused by that too. They placed a blanket on her but only up to her neck, leaving her face uncovered.
Wow, that’s awful! I know you were freaked out by the dead woman but I feel horrible for the husband. What an awful experience for him! I can’t even imagine what it must have been like for him on those 6 hours (and the days and weeks that followed).
Jeremy Branham recently posted..Celebrate Independence Day with our national pastime – a tour of Coors Field
I know, it was horrible…
Well, this is one travel experience I don’t want to imitate. Incredibly unsanitary that the ferry personnel let her lie next to so many people for so many hours. But of course they probably weren’t at all prepared for such a disaster. I would have been traumatized just like you.
And by the way, what is this intriguing “happy food”?
Holy crap! What a story! I suppose, what else was there to do? I once heard a story of a man in Africa on a bus whose arm had been bloodily crushed by a bus going the other way (yes, I know that sounds suspiciously like a story my mother might have told the 5-year-old me, but then I’ve seen these buses and how they are driven – yikes) and the man bled out on the bus as they all continued on. True or not, what really can be done in the middle of nowhere when there are no ambulances, 911, medvacs, and all the other emergency plans we find in more developed regions? Life is brutal. Malaria kills 1.2 million each year. But those of us reading this would likely have no problem getting the prevention or treatment to survive it. Be safe!
And yes, what is “happy” food. Laced with something? And why would that be preferable to serve? You’re having quite the adventure there!
Kevin – The Mad Traveler recently posted..Thai Food: Dim Sum in Trang Town
Yeah, exactly. When there’s nothing around the only option is to do nothing, really…
Yeah, happy food contains drugs.
Well, I’m not quite sure what else they could do in that situation. We were on a boat in the middle of nowhere and there was no other option.
“Happy” versions of food contain cannabis or magic mushrooms or some drug concoction.
I don’t take drugs so I wasn’t very happy that I couldn’t eat for 12 hours.
That is a really sad story Lauren…poor guy!It makes it so much worse that this had to happen on a boat!
Someday I’ll Be There – Mina recently posted..The Devil’s Head – Ras Shitan aka Ras Sinai | Photo Essay
I know, there was just no escape, for him or for the passengers!
Wow. Absolutely crazy. I just can’t even begin to imagine what this must’ve been like. I feel awful for the husband to have his wife die in public on a boat and not have any privacy. And it sounds like the whole situation was extremely awkward for you and everyone else around. Had to climb over her to get to your luggage??? OMG!!
Ali recently posted..Heidelberg Castle Still Guarding Its Walls
I know! But the man didn’t move his wife and none of us were going to touch her and drag her out of the way… So there was just a line of about 50 backpackers all stumbling over her…
In Buddhist/Hindu/Asian culture, a corpse isn’t considered morbid like in the west. It’s just a vessel for the body. It’s normal for family members and friends to handle the body of the deceased. Bodies are usually on display and it doesn’t seem to make people uncomfortable… if you do get uncomfortable, people believe you are saddening the spirit of the person who died.
Every culture has a unique way of coping with death.
Alex recently posted..The Hindu Trimurti: Gods Of India
Ahhh ok, that makes sense then. I did wonder why she was so exposed.
please do not generalise, not all asians believe in that.
I feel so sad for the man and his wife, and all the others on board. what a terrible way to spend a cramped boat ride. at least nothing bad happened to your or your travel mate.
I absolutely loved Luang Prabang, and I can’t think of a calmer, more relaxed city in which to come down off such an emotional boat ride.
thanks for sharing your story.
I loved Luang Prabang too! It was so peaceful and definitely helped to relax me afterwards!
That is not something I wish to experience. A sad story of life. Glad you could manage through this adventure. Have a safe trip, Lauren.
Memographer recently posted..Salzburg: Mirabell Palace in Polaroids
Thanks so much :) It was very sad.
No way, that’s awful! I found the slow boat to Luang Phabang desperately uncomfortable (hard seats) and Pakbeng horrible but not like this! Hope you enjoy the rest of your time in Laos – get the slow boat in the south to Champasek and the 4000 islands – much more relaxed, less touristy and hopefully no death.
Natasha von Geldern recently posted..Destination Poland: Llublin
The seats were comfortable at first but after a few hours it was unbearable! I didn’t find it as relaxing as everybody promised it would be….. :)
What a horrendous journey.
Why, oh why, did the boat continue on?
Bethaney – Flashpacker Family recently posted..Living a Free and Meaningful Life
Well, we were in the middle of Laos – there is literally nothing around. You can’t just stop off and find a hospital in the middle of nowhere, so we had to continue to Luang Prabang as there was no other option!
Wow, I cannot even imagine the thoughts that must have been racing through your head! I’ve never experienced anything close to this, and must admit that I’m glad I haven’t. Makes me glad we don’t do budget travel…
Bret @ Green Global Travel recently posted..INTERVIEW: Rick Steves On Ecotourism, Blogging & Best Places To Score Weed
Is budget travel relevant? I’m sure people die during luxury travel trips :)
That sound so horrible–what I don’t understand is why no one moved her once it was time to get the luggage??
Andrea recently posted..The Engagement: Aka, the Hardest Secret I’ve Ever Had to Keep!
Yes. I know! We half waited for her husband to move her but he did nothing… And we weren’t going to pick up a dead woman and move her out the way! …So we just awkwardly stumbled over her….
Holy crap! This illustrates the point that truth is stranger than fiction. Wow. What an experience.
Juliann recently posted..Breendonk Concentration Camp
Yeah, i couldn’t believe it was actually happening.
I guess when they say “slow” boat they really mean it–I mean if someone dies of old age on your boat, then yes, it is slow. As the only person ever to spend two months in Laos and not ever ride the boat to or from Thailand, I thank you for reconfirming that I made the right decision.
Daniel McBane recently posted..How to Survive a Chinese Internet Cafe
Well, I’ve never heard of anybody dying on a boat before – mine was a bit of a freak occurrence! Up until that point the slow boat had been pretty amazing – and everyone else that has done that journey seems to say the same thing! :)
Oh my gawd, you poor thing! What a horrible experience! I probably would have gotten hysterical between the dead body behind me and listening to the old woman’s husband. Wow…
It was pretty hard trying to keep it all together for hours and hours… I was drained by the end of it!
That’s insane. Can’t believe you lived through that. Life is fragile eh?
Will – My Spanish Adventure recently posted..Guest Post: My Move To Spain
Yep. Shudder.
Holy shit… I got married in May and though I know one day one of us will have to face what that poor, poor guy went through, I just … no. No words really.
Chris Booth recently posted..The drizzly island of sacred deer and hidden grottoes, Miyajima, Japan
I know, it makes me shudder!
Under the circumstances, perhaps it wouldn’t have been a bad time to try a ‘happy’ sausage. I feel bad that you had to experience this, but I guess these reminders of the fragility of life have their positive effects: like encouraging us to live it to the full, and reminding us to take our anti-malarials.
Arianwen recently posted..Essential toiletries for long-term travel
Definitely agree with you!
What a crazy story! It’s the kind of thing you assume never would happen and then it does and it’s just shocking. Someone wrote old age–is it assumed she died of natural causes? How sad.
No, she died from malaria. I think she’d been sick for quite a while.
That’s an amazing story. I don’t know why this stuff keeps happening to you, and I’m sorry to say this, but it does make for entertaining reading. If that helps ;)
Laurence recently posted..Capture the Colour Photo Contest
Hahaha, I’m glad I can provide entertainment – it makes it a little easier when the crazy things happen to know there will be a ton of readers that will enjoy hearing about it!
What an ordeal for all involved!
I’ve known quite a few people who have taken the slow boar, and all report horror stories when it comes to accommodation,so I don’t think your experience is unique; still not nice though.
Nancie recently posted..Travel Photo Thursday — July 5th, 2012 — The Eyes of Prague
Yeah, all the accommodation looked pretty dire to be honest! I didn’t like being lied to and told we’d have hot water and wifi just to get us in there…
Been looking forward to this story for sooooo long. It sounds as horrific as you can get really. I would be petrified. You are ultra brave :) x
George recently posted..Road tripping across Europe: The Statistics
Thanks, George :) It really was horrific!
Oh my god…what are the odds?? I can’t believe this actually happened!
Callie recently posted..WEEKLY ROUNDUP FROM THE WILDS OF THE WEB
I know, that was what I kept telling myself on the entire journey! What are the chances?!
That is certainly not a travel experience I envy! I’m so sorry you had to deal with death literally right next to you. That’s horrible for the husband too. Very heartbreaking.
Suzy recently posted..The Packed Suitcase For Life and The Overdue Vacation
It wasn’t one of my happiest travel experiences, that’s for sure!
OH MY GOD! That is sooo scary! Is it malaria really that susceptible/dangerous in South Asia?? Do you recommend getting vaccinations for it before going to Laos/Cambodia/Thailand??? This has me sooo freaked out!
I think it’s more dangerous for the locals as frequently they don’t have access to the medical care that we do. It’s certainly not as bad as the malaria in Africa/South America. I didn’t take anti-malarials during my 10 months in SE Asia and I was fine.
I do recommend vaccinations such as Hep A/B, typhoid, but that’s all.
Thanks for letting me know! I’ll definitely be sure to get those before I leave!
You poor thing! That is so awful I don’t even know what to say. Talk about culture shock – I’m sure that would violate a few public health and safety regulations in Western countries. I feel a bit sick now myself…
Andrea recently posted..Travel Memories: Crete and Santorini (or, the story of how we met)
I know! I can’t imagine this happening back home and people just lying them on the floor for 6 hours. There would be such an outrage over it!
Geeze! That’s a horrible experience. That poor lady and her husband. It’s crazy how fast that can happen. I didn’t realize that malaria was that dangerous in SEAsia. I guess some parts are worse than others. She obviously had the worse kind since it seems like it must have hit her fast and took over her within the 24 hours.
Kristen J. – Hopscotch the Globe recently posted..Re: Travel Video Series: How to Travel the World & Travel Comedy
I don’t think it’s too dangerous – she was quite old and being Lao I don’t think they have access to the medical care that we do. I think she might have been sick before getting on the boat, but I don’t know for sure.
Wow, how awful for everyone but especially the woman and her husband. I’ve heard stories about this happening on airplanes and it just sounds like the biggest nightmare imaginable.
Scott – Quirky Travel Guy recently posted..12 Things You Didn’t Know About Alaska
It was so awful! There was just no way of getting away from it.
This story is insane. What a terrible thing to happen, and completely surreal.
Genevieve recently posted..Sapa
I know, it’s crazy, isn’t it?!
oh my gosh!!! My heart is breaking for the old man! what a terrible thing to happen. I think I would’ve freaked out SO much though. *sigh*
Sheryll recently posted..True Life: I’m Obsessed with Korean Cosmetics
Yeah, and I really did! It’s the worst place for it to happen..
This sounds absolutely horrible! And you wanting to faint is the exact reaction I would of had. Poor old man though.
I have no idea how I managed to not pass out for the entire journey!
OMG! But after reading some of the other stories on your blog… I kind of think that this sort of thing would only happen to you! lol!
Jade Johnston recently posted..Free E Book – The Art Of World Travel
I’m sorry that someone’s death inconvenienced your travel plans and made you feel uncomfortable for a little while. Get over yourself.
Hi Louis,
As a severe hypochondriac I tend to overreact when faced with any kind of illness or death and try to avoid it at all costs, so of course it was traumatising for me. Although I’d question anybody who had to sit next to a dead body and her grieving husband for six hours and didn’t feel uncomfortable…
I was just telling the story and my experience from my perspective. Yes, it was absolutely awful for the poor woman and her husband and I wasn’t trying to compare my feeling uncomfortable with his loss. I’m sorry if you feel it comes across that way. Honestly, this happened over six months ago and not a day has gone by where I haven’t thought about the woman. It still upsets me to this day.
There’s no need to be so judgemental.
..and today I decided I’m doing the Slow Boat trip in January (nearly went after the Discovery Air Pass to fly from Chiang Mai into Luang Prabang). Yipes!
OutsideTheGuidebook recently posted..Kayaköy – How to get into the Ghost Village for FREE
Omg this would be horrible :s And I feel for her husband as well
OH MY GOD. OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD. I can’t believe that happened to you! I’m know I’m late to the game here in reading this but I feel traumatized just from reading this.
This is an incredible story! I’ve read it a couple of times but am only commenting now because I’m planning a trip from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang and wanted to ask: would you still take the slow boat, despite the horrible night in Pak Beng? Also, did you go through a specific operator for your boat? Thank you :)
Wow. That is an amazing story, and so well told. I can’t imagine being in that situation… I felt all your emotions as I read it.
My husband and I had a very unnerving experience when we came across a dead body 10 miles out at at sea in the Pacific Ocean when we were sailing our boat from Acapulco to Huatulco Mexico. (We have been traveling full-time by sailboat and RV for 6 years).
It was so shocking to find this body, and so unexpected, and so completely disturbing. The story is here: http://roadslesstraveled.us/huatulco1/
I imagine this post was as difficult for you to write as mine was for me… thanks for sharing!!
Emily of Roads Less Traveled recently posted..Paraiso – An Unexpected Tropical Oasis!
Wow, that’s such a tragic story! I really appreciate the way you found a tactful and well written way of relaying the experience. I kind of felt like I was there and wish I wasn’t!