With just five days left in the Philippines before my visa was due to run out, I knew I wanted to spend my final days lying on a beautifully secluded beach, working on my tan and sipping fresh pineapple juice.
I wanted somewhere similar to Boracay but without the tourists.
Fortunately, my travel companions had the same idea and as my laptop had recently broken I relied on them to research the prettiest beaches in the Philippines. They came to the conclusion that Coron had the best beaches and we booked our flights for the next day.
After a terrifying flight where the propellers on our plane seemed to stop entirely mid-air, and where I was 100% convinced I was about to plumet to my death, we landed at Coron airport and were immediately shoved into an overpacked, overheated jeep having no idea where we were actually being driven to…
Next was an hour of driving through Jurassic Park-esque scenery where Jen and I clutched at each other in fear as the jeep slowly crawled over creaking “bridges” – essentially two flimsy planks of wood thrown over a raging river, and which threatened to snap in half at any minute.
I wiped the sweat out of my eyes and grinned through gritted teeth, enjoying the adventure and simultaneously wanting it to stop.
The jeep reached an area with roughly ten wooden huts, screeched to a halt and the driver motioned for us to get out with no explanation. We piled off with our bags as the jeep then sped off into the distance, its tyres kicking up a mixture of gravel, mud and dust all over us.
Under the sweltering heat and humidity, we stumbled along the dirt track for what felt like hours – desperate for a sign of humanity.
We eventually found a small sauna disguised as a guesthouse where we decided to stay. It was kept at a permanent temperature of 40 degrees celsius, and the owner appeared to be completely off his face on acid.
At least it was full of Christmas cheer.
As I collapsed in my bed, drained and dehydrated, I decided that beach time was definitely needed so found the owner to ask where the nearest beach is.
What I got in return was a blank stare and a handful of brochures. Upon enquiring further I found out that there were in fact no beaches in Coron town.
The beautiful beaches of Coron that we had read so much about were a 1500PHP($35) and 30 minute boat ride away…
Not being able to afford $35 a day just to get to a beach and with just four days left in the Philippines, I decided to give up and booked my flights out of the country – I would find my beach paradise elsewhere.
Moral of the story: Don’t trust somebody else to do your research for you!
Disheartened by the whole experience but not wanting to leave Coron having seen absolutely nothing, I suggested staying in Coron for at least one day – We told the hostel owner we wanted to rent a boat for the day so that we could find a secluded beach to relax on.
At 7am, we arrived at the crowded boat dock and fought our way through the hoardes of people until we spotted the hostel owner frantically waving to us from a small boat.
He pulled us on board and introduced us to the other people who were part of our group tour.
A group tour was definitely not what we had signed up for.
I dismissed my growing concern and thought of the wonderful beaches that were in my future. It was going to be a good day.
I allowed myself to relax as we glided past dramatic limestone peaks and secret islands with powdery white sand beaches.
This is precisely what I had come here for.
The boat slowed to a stop and our tour guide pulled out a bag of snorkelling gear and announced that the first stop on our itinerary would be snorkelling at Siete Pecados for 10 minutes and at a price of 100PHP.
Pathetically, seawater brings my face out in a rash so I declined the opportunity to participate and instead tentatively asked the tour guide where the beaches were in the itinerary.
“Beaches?”, he said in confusion. “We stop at a beach for 10 minutes for lunch. Many more things to see.”
He reeled off a huge itinerary of things – all of which consisted of snorkelling in different lakes.
This was not turning out as I had expected.
I dismissed my overwhelming feeling of disappointment and decided to make the most of my time in this beautiful part of the world.
Sitting back I smiled as I listened to the gentle splash of water against the side of the boat and watched my travel companions snorkelling in the distance.
We reached Kayangan Lake and unsurprisingly we had to once again pay an entrance fee – although with views like this it was definitely worth the 200PHP:
We spent the morning and early afternoon visiting lake after lake after lake – each with its own entrance fee and each one looking exactly the same as the last.
After six hours of sailing our tour guide announced that we would be heading to a beach. Finally!
From a distance he pointed out the tiny beach to us – it looked perfect.
Bobbing closer and closer, my eyes began to focus and I saw tour boat upon tour boat upon tour boat, the beach was jam-packed with tourists and the sea was just as bad.
Not exactly the beach paradise I had in mind when we decided on coming to Coron.
I jumped out and leaped up to the beach, laid down my towel and finally started to relax. I was optimistic that soon the boats would drift off and we would end up with the beach to ourselves – everything would work out in the end.
Ten minutes later I opened my eyes to see our tour guide looming over me ordering me to pack up and get back on the boat so that we would be able to make it to Barracuda Lake for some more snorkelling.
It was unfortunate that my last destination in the Philippines was spent on a group tour I didn’t want to be on, going to places I didn’t want to go to – especially after I had such an incredible time in Boracay and Bohol.
Although I was glad to leave Coron behind on this occasion, I intend on returning to Palawan in the future and hopefully next time I’ll have a completely different experience.
Have you ever been disappointed with a place you arrived at with high expectations?
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In July 2011 I left England for what was supposed to be a one year trip around the world. Within a few months of leaving I knew that a year would never be enough. I now work online and travel permanently, seeking misadventures in unique, beautiful and fascinating places. Read more.
I'm here to show you how not to travel. Since I've been on the road I've been "poked" during a massage in Bangkok, punched a scammer in Shanghai, been attacked by monkeys in Bali, sat next to a dead woman on a boat in Laos and so much more. I call these The Incidents and you can see a full list of them here.
FOR THE LOVE OF FERMENTED FISH SAUCE. These pictures look amazing. Why didn’t you take me with you? I want to go. Me! Me!! Pick me!!! I can offer you nothing because I am destitute backpacker. But I’ll make you a lanyard out of my hair. Deal?
Bula recently posted..Korean Porn: A World Like No Other
Seriously though. I know you say it sucked but your pictures say otherwise. When things suck for me, it looks like I was in the Born Into Brothels documentary.
Bula recently posted..Korean Porn: A World Like No Other
Yeah, it was just because I’d spent the past couple of weeks rushing around, going on tours, seeing as much as possible, so I wanted my last few days to be chilled out, lying on a beach and doing nothing – not watching people snorkel for ten hours!
It’s true though – Coron was beautiful. I just wasn’t in the correct mindset to fully appreciate it.
Too bad it wasn’t what you were expecting. It sounds like you wer able to somewhat make the best of it though. I think that is the most important aspect – not allowing something unexpected to ruin your day completely.
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Yep – I tried to be positive when things weren’t working out how I had planned… Still, I was glad when the tour was over at the end of the day! :)
Awesome pics…sorry you didn’t get the beach time you wanted. Hopefully it is right around the corner. Of course, a bad day there is better than a good day just about anywhere else:)
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Thanks Deej! Beach time will be coming up for me very soon, and it’s true – I could have been back home in England and that would REALLY suck! ;)
Oh no! I had the perfect fantasy of living in Coron for a couple of months, wake up and swim before I start my day. Now, what am I going to do if the beach is so far away.
The photos look great by the way. I guess I’ll settle for snorkeling for one day =)
Yeah, that was the fantasy I had too!
You still have a lot of places to visit in Philippines, if you’re not only searching for the beaches:
The new 7 wonder of nature, Puerto Princesa Underground River in Palawan
Hundred Islands in Pangasinan.
Pagsanjan Falls where you’ll need to experience the rapids before reaching the falls in Laguna.
Pagudpud beach in Ilocos.
Cagbalete Island where you can see sands almost anywhere during lowtide.
Siargao Island, the surfing capital of the Philippines.
Batanes Island, if you want to experience Cliff of Moher of Ireland and the slopes of New Zealand in an Asian country.
these are just few of a number of destinations you can reach. just google them. Just plan ahead, as the time it will take you to visit several places in this archipelago will just be too much.
Hope you had fun in the Philippines!
Plenty of things to see when I go back ;)
The water and the landscape remind me a lot of Plitvice!
Jeremy Branham recently posted..Slovenian culture, geography, food, and people
Yeah, the water was so gorgeous!
Hey Lauren, total bummer how your relaxing day of seclusion turned out. That sucks you have that reaction to the water, and how the whole boat tour was about…snorkeling. I can’t scuba dive because of my sinuses and allergies, so I feel your pain a little! Hopefully you’ll find some secluded beached to hideaway at next time, still stunning photos though! I’ve always found the best hidden beaches by wandering and getting lost =)
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Ha ha, if white powdery beaches you look for in Palawan?You should have went to El Nido!Google it and watch youtube to see! El Nido is a combination of Coron and Boracay without the nightlife though.There is a little nightlife, but very laid back compare to Boracay.
When you go island hopping in El Nido, you’ll get to go and see enchanting caves, hidden and breathtaking lagoons and limestone cliffs, and some of the finest and wild white and pristine beaches. Very quiet and peaceful, and yet tons of activities to do.Great sunset too.
If you’d like to experience total luxury and better beach and water than Boracay?Go to Amanpulo Island located in Palawan as well. If you’re loaded, definitely a place to go for the beach and pampering. It’s where the jet setters, Hollywood A list, and Royals usually go to in the country.Secluded and Private island. At least 1000 dollars a night for two.But it’s really beautiful and a total paradise.
You can also go to Camiguin island in between the south and central part. It is a secluded island next to Bohol, and often called as the “Paradise of Eden”. Volcanic hotsprings in a tropical setting. 15 minutes boat and you’ll get to go in a long trail of white powdery sand beach in the middle of the ocean, called “the white island”.Although Camiguin dont have the luxury that Boracay or El nido offers, but some resorts are comfortable and very few comes around.Sceneries are worth kept coming back to. Feels like you have the whole island for yourself.
If you want more posh areas and luxury resorts and a bit of nightlife, go to Cebu and cross the bridge across to Mactan Island.
Pagudpud in the North also have the beach of Boracay, but secluded and pretty much just the beach and big waves.
There are other breathtaking beaches to explore in the south in Samal and Dakak, but i wouldn’t recommend you go down there. A minority of Muslims lives in the deep south and they are not very welcoming to foreigners and especially westerners.Although Samal and Davao are in the catholic region of the south, it’s better to not get close at all in some of those troubled islands in the deep south.Some stubborn tourists still ignores the travel warnings, and go to those islands in the deep south occupied by the local muslims and why some kidnappings occurs.
Always always stay in the north and central part of the country, and rather mingle w/ the friendliest and hospitable christian filipinos.
Just so you know, I’m a Canadian and love the filipino culture. Had my 5th trip in October of last year. Will go back again in November of this year.Avoid the typhoon season between June-October to enjoy your beach trips!
Stunning powdery white beaches in the Philippines are common, but a lot of it are private and still undeveloped. If you’re quite an adventurist, Philippines is quite an exciting country to explore. If you have a chance, the tropical falls and rivers are something not to be missed as well. Volcanos are amazing too. Just bring along a group w/ you.Make friend w/ some locals and they are very friendly and will take time to take you around. And to make sure poor filipinos won’t take advantage of your money. Philippines is 95% safe and urban areas are very americanized w/ some of the biggest malls in the world and rich history and culture of American, Asian, and Hispanic.A combination of old,modern, 3rd world, and 1st world,lol.And my favorite country in Asia not only becoz of their friendly and hospitable nature, but the fact that more than half of the population do speak good english or at least understandable english. It’s not that hard to blend in.
I hope this helps.Youtube all those places i’ve mentioned, just to have some ideas and what to expect.
Oh and one more thing, PI has more than 7100 islands. All has its own unique and beautiful landscapes. Pretty much, you can own your own island if you’d like,lol.And a great abundant marine life. Some of the best divers in the world are ranking the country as the best in the world to dive into.
The whole Palawan is definitely the place to explore and you might say a paradise. It is environmentally protected and literally you swim w/ colorful fishes and corals when sunny and clear!!And sunbathe in beautiful white beaches in different islands you choose (el nido). Feb-May are the best time to explore Palawan. Not a lot of rains and you’d like to explore the area when sunny and clear water to see the exotic marine life of the area.Honda Bay is also a magnificent sugary white beach in Puerto Princesa and don’t miss the Puerto Princes River while there. It is now included in 7 wonders of the world for being the longest and protected underground river.
I haven’t been to Mindoro and Marinduque white sand beaches, but it’s next on my list.:)
Although you were really unlucky on this one, the pictures do look amazing! that must have been worth it, or atleast made up for some of your disappointment!
Someday I’ll Be There – Mina recently posted..Sucking on Pebbles
Didn’t make it to Coron but these lakes look pretty amazing! Palawan is very similar, just with so many bays, not lakes. Loved it over there!
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Wow, that is some seriously impressive scenery – love the contrast of the white beaches and the water and then the junglous mountains. I think I may have just made that word up. Beautiful stuff :D
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Lauren,
I’ve gotta say, I read your site from time to time and sadly I see more negative then positive. Punching Chinese girls that were scamming you, meeting up with guys you thought might be cute but turns out they weren’t and now being in a gorgeous place like that but disappointed that nothing seemed to go right or as you wanted. Hope your travels get better, if not I would of headed home already myself. haha
Seawater makes you break out in a rash?? That’s terrible! I should start using that as an excuse, though, when people tell me I should go diving or something. :P But with that aversion to water this adventure sounds like a terribly boring (for you) nightmare tour.
Christy @ Technosyncratic recently posted..Adventures in Thai Massage
Did you go to Malcapuya Island? It’s about 1.5 hours by boat from the jetty port of Coron. Gorgeous place! Less people too. Apparently the island was bought from a native islander for P500/£7 back in the ’70s!
If you didn’t go then more reason to go back! If you want secluded beaches, next time you come to The Philippines check out Kalanggaman Island & Canigao Island in my home province – Leyte!
I too went on a group tour in Coron and I felt it was too rushed as they try and pack everything in a short space of time. They should vary the tours more. Less snorkelling and more beach time! After a 2-day tour I felt like wrinkled mermaid!
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It probably wasn’t as perfect as you pictured it but surely you made it work and the pictures are just amazing…keep having fun :)
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try Calaguas. this is so similar to Boracay except no structures around except for the house of care taker and toilet., you need to use tent only and they uses generator at night. Beach sand is similar to boracay, water are consistently around 3′-4′ even after 100- 150 meters (i think.) :). & izzy is so right about the beaches mentioned.
You said you’ve been to Boracay island, from there just a 45mins. boat travel you can enjoy the beach of Carabao island all by your self, nice beach and not to many people are going there…
You have some wonderful photos of amazing and enticing scenery! Well done.
This has got to be the most exciting “disappointing” trip i have ever read. Your photos are simply stunning. Should you go back to Palawan, head for El Nido. Same picturesque setting with more beaches :) You are going to have an awesome time getting lost there! Cheers!
Sounds like it was a bit of a challenge to get to Palawan for you. We are debating if we are going to include it on our RTW trip schedule. The pictures from your unexpected day trip looked awesome!
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