Month 60: Travel Summary and Statistics


I kicked off month 60 with a heart-warming visit from my parents. I couldn’t wait to show them around my new home.

I’d been saving all of the most touristy activities in Lisbon for when they were here, so I was thrilled to finally get to discover what brings most people here.

Here’s what we got up to!

The Euros in Lisbon

Their visit was timed with the Euro 2016 championship, so we started off our explorations in Praça do Comércio, one of the main squares in Lisbon. There was a giant screen showing the matches, live music, and lots of food and drink stalls. I loved how Lisbon pulled out all the stops for every match, and nothing could beat the exhilarating experience of Portugal winning a couple of weeks later!

Alfama neighbourhood, in Lisbon

After a long walk beside the river, we made our way up through Alfama, the oldest district in the city. I love wandering around this part of Lisbon, because it’s full of maze-like alleyways, colourful and crumbling buildings, and bright fiesta streamers!

And hills, because Lisbon.


Next up on our list was a visit to Lisbon’s castle. I’d been snapping photos of it from below for several months by now, so it was definitely time for me to get up high and view the city from above. It turned out to be far better than I’d expected! It’s now one of my viewpoints of the city and somewhere I’m forever telling new visitors to Lisbon to check out.

At this point, we had just enough time to pay a quick visit to the Time Out Market to grab dinner, then collapse in bed after a 10 hour day of sightseeing.

Our next day of exploring was slightly more relaxed, as we were all exhausted from our action-packed previous day. We walked through Lisbon’s Botanical Gardens, wandered around one of my favourite parks, had a fish sandwich, and took a trip into Estrela in search of the best pasteis de nata in Lisbon.

Unfortunately, it was during this weekend when Brexit struck and what should have been a perfect, joyful visit was overlaid with a general sense of malaise and dismay. I think my anxiety reached peak levels after the referendum, and if there was ever a moment I could point to where I hit rock bottom with my mental health, it was now. I couldn’t sleep, I couldn’t eat, I felt sick, I had stomach cramps, I was spending all day inside, crying and hyperventilating. I was close to getting Dave to take me to a hospital.

It wasn’t a great time to be alive.


Fortunately, that all changed when I started the Whole30.

Guys, this is the single best thing I have ever done in my life. I cannot praise or recommend it enough.

It’s thanks to the Whole30 that I’m now anxiety-free and have been for four months and counting.

It’s thanks to the Whole30 that I no longer suffer with hayfever. I used to have to take many, many antihistamines every day throughout summer to stop my face swelling up like this.

And it’s thanks to the Whole30 that I no longer get severe motion sickness. Who knew that was related to my diet?

At the start of month 60, I can’t even tell you how broken I was. I put on a brave face here and on social media, because who wants to read endlessly about someone’s breakdown? Behind the scenes, though, I was suffering.

whole30 salmon
A typical meal on the Whole30: grilled salmon, soaked in extra virgin olive oil and lime juice, with tomatoes, zuccini, onion, and a bunch of herbs. Roast potatoes on the side, because of course.

Enter: the Whole30.

I don’t want to delve too deeply into my experience here, because I’m planning on writing about it in depth in a couple of weeks, but the Whole30 is basically an extreme version of paleo. No gluten, no grains, no dairy, no legumes, no sugar, no sweeteners, no additives, no alcohol — if something causes inflammation in your body, it’s out for the month.

So what can you eat? Lots of fresh meat and fish, fresh vegetables, potatoes, eggs, and fruit. You can drink water, sparkling water, or coffee with no milk or sugar. That’s about it.

I feel like it’s important to say that I approached the Whole30 as the biggest skeptic in the world, especially after I learned it was an extremely strict version of the Paleo diet, which I thought was exclusively for douchebags.

But I was desperate, so I put my judgements to one side and dove right it.

I mentioned the three main benefits for me above, but there were plenty of others, too. Like a 15 lbweight loss, like having constant energy levels and no longer needing to nap every afternoon, like experiencing random rushes of euphoria throughout the day, like having amazing skin and healthier hair and brighter eyes, like experiencing a boost in productivity and motivation, like having a flat AF stomach when I went to bed rather than being so bloated that I looked six months pregnant. The excruciating pain I’d been battling post-bladder infection cleared up, too. And I stopped getting sick, too!

Dave decided to do the Whole30 with me, for no other reason than to be supportive and to give me the best chance of succeeding (best boyfriend ever), so I’m thrilled he experienced just as many amazing effects. He lost about 15 lbs over the month, his skin that’s been breaking out for as long as I’ve known him completely cleared up, and some painful long-term digestive issues he’s battled for over 20 years disappeared. Like me, he had more motivation and energy than ever before.

You know me: I can never write about the positives of something without equally weighing up the negatives! The Whole30 wasn’t all amazing and there were plenty of struggles. It’s basically impossible to eat out during the month, as restaurant meals are very, very rarely Whole30 compliant, which killed our social lives. We met up with friends a few times, but when the only thing we could order was water, I felt like a jerk. Also, cooking 90 meals in 30 days takes up a lot of time. The first 10 days or so were tough. Really tough. I had flu-like symptoms for the first week as my body detoxed from all the sugar I used to love, my cravings were out of control, and I was so tired I could barely work. One day, I slept for 18 hours!

But to finally be able to function in life and feel like a normal human being again more than makes up for those downsides.

So, there you go. Apparently the paleo douchebags were onto something. Apparently, I’m now one of them.

month 60 travel map

Highlight of the Month

It has to be showing my parents around my beautiful new home! I’ve now met up with my parents on my travels for a road trip through the Pacific Northwest, for a music-themed trip around the Southern U.S., in Slovenia, and now in Portugal. I love that they’ve transformed into globe-trotters over the past few years, and getting to show them around some of my favourite places is always a delight.

Lowlight of the Month

Brexit. Ugh. I still feel so utterly depressed about the result and fearful about how it will affect my future in Lisbon. I’m also frustrated that Portugal is now so much more expensive than when I moved here and that my savings are worth so much less. Gah.

Incident of the Month

The Saga of the Black Scabbardfish.

Oh god.

Another benefit of doing the Whole30 was greatly improving my skills in the kitchen. I mean, hey, if you have to cook 90 meals in 30 days, you’re bound to pick up some new tricks!

I was enjoying leaving my comfort zone when it came to cooking, so I decided to branch out and grab a weird-looking fish at our fishmongers one morning. I had no idea what it was or how to cook it, but I figured it’d be reasonably straightforward. I’d been cooking a lot of fish.

After a fair amount of googling, I discovered that what I had bought was something called a black scabbardfish. A rare and very ugly-looking fish that can only be found in the waters surrounding Madeira. It was also very, very tricky to descale.

Dave spent an entire 45 minutes trying to descale this freaking fish, all while I was googling more and more about it and discovering some unsettling facts:

Despite having huge market value and a strong hold in the typical Southern European diet, there are several health risks associated with consumption of the black scabbardish due to the presence of several toxic metals found within the fish including lead, mercury, and cadmium. Even in very small quantities, these metals can be deadly to humans if consumed.

But wait, there’s more:

The black scabbardfish is a suitable host for the parasite known as Anisakis. Consumption of raw or under cooked black scabbard fish can result in health complications for humans. The only reliable treatment for a human affected with Anisakiasis is the removal of the nematodes through endoscopy, or surgery.

What the hell had I just bought?

And not only that, but after Dave had spent the better part of an hour wrestling with this goddamn fish, we began slicing it up and found a giant rusty hook buried inside it!

And that was the end of our attempts to cook a black scabbardfish.

We threw it out and went with some smoked salmon for dinner instead.

And that was month 60!

Month 61 travel map

My Next Steps

After spending a couple of months settling into my Lisbon apartment, it was, of course, time to pack up my things and hit the road again!

I’ve got a full summer of European travel ahead of me and I can’t wait to bounce my way across the continent over the next eight weeks.

First up: a return to my beloved U.K. with a two-week long stint in Hackney, over in East London. Hackney doesn’t have the greatest reputation in London (understatement), but it’s quickly developing and compared to what Shoreditch or Brixton were like ten years ago.. Given that Dave and I regularly dream of one day being able to afford to move to London, we’re heading there to see if Hackney could be a possible base at some point.

From Hackney, we’ll be heading north to Oxford: a place I’ve never been to before, and basically my first time venturing north of London while in the U.K.! Yes, really. Dave’s brother studies at Oxford University, so we’ll be paying him a visit for a few days. While we’re there, we’ll be checking out the architecture, having plenty of pub lunches, and wandering around the university grounds.

After a few days back in Staines with my family, I’ll be jumping on a plane and flying over to Greece for my very first visit.

Woohoo! I’m excited to jump back in the travel waters again.


  1. Dominique
    November 5, 2016

    Hahaha that fish does not look appetizing at all! :) It’s brave you dared to you take a fish home with you to cook. It’s a pity it didn’t work out though! Hopefully next time ;)

    • November 6, 2016

      Right?! It’s definitely one of the ugliest fish I’ve ever seen.

  2. Natalie
    November 5, 2016

    Oh, the scabberfish thing! That sounds like something I would do. In fact, back about 15 years ago (can it really be 15 years ago?!), I saw alligator for sale at the meat counter. I live 800+ miles from Florida (over 1400 kilometers), so alligator isn’t something we feast on here. I bought it, searched out how to cook it, and decided to put it in the crockpot.

    I kept checking it and it never softened up. It was tough, it made the house stink like a swamp, and the smell made me feel nauseated. My cat loved it. You’d have thought he’d slayed the alligator. I couldn’t eat it. Then and there, I decided it might be best to try stuff like that cooked by a professional first. It was like I bought a slab of fat without any meat on it. Blech.

  3. Katie
    November 6, 2016

    I also think of them as ‘paleo wankers’ but the Whole30 does sound like something worth doing. I am trying to convince my boyfriend to do it with me – he has so many health issues including a near constant upset stomach, heart burn and bad skin so I think it would be great for him especially.

    • November 6, 2016

      I try not get evangelical about it, but I believe it’s worth trying if you’re interested in it or have problems you think it may help, especially as it’s just for 30 days. Your boyfriend’s health problems sound so similar Dave’s!

      I’m about 80-90% paleo these days and I’ve never felt better. So I’m definitely a paleo wanker now, and it’s totally worth the judgment I know I’ll receive in the future because it’s helped me so much! :-)

  4. Lotte
    November 6, 2016

    Incredible how your health has improved so tremendously because of the diet! I would like to try it out but want to make sure I can completely commit to it so I would have to clear my social schedule ;-).

    I hadn’t even considered how the Brexit really sucks for you guys! Bummer!!!

  5. Brooklyn Murtaugh
    November 7, 2016

    I have always gotten sick after eating fish for some reason, I guess it just never sat well with me.
    I Googled that fish you bought, so gross and creepy! As if you found a hook in it!

    I’m so glad Whole30 worked so well for you, I have heard amazing reviews :)

    • March 2, 2017

      RIGHT?! It was the worst fish I’ve ever bought, haha. Such a disaster.

  6. Christopher
    November 7, 2016

    Most likely you are allergic to one of the things you cut out of your diet. For a few years I was constantly having anxiety problems, my hay fever was awful, and I’d get migraines and motion sickness. Eventually I found out that lactose was causing the problems. After cutting milk and other things containing lactose out of my diet, most of the allergy issues, migraines, and motion sickness went away!

    • November 7, 2016

      I’ll be sharing what happened when I slowly reintroduced everything when I publish my post in a few weeks, but it wasn’t an allergy for me.

      Happy to hear you discovered the source of your problems and managed to recover from them all. That’s amazing! :-)

  7. Stephanie Craig
    November 7, 2016

    I haven’t done Whole30, but I got diagnosed with a wheat allergy this summer. Not eating wheat changed my life! I stopped getting heartburn, which i used to get 3X a week.

    • March 2, 2017

      That’s amazing! I’ve since been diagnosed with a non-celiac gluten intolerance. I can’t believe how much it affects me!

  8. Amy
    November 13, 2016

    Sounds like a really interesting diet, I’ll be interested to read more about it. Are you still keeping it up now? I wonder what happens when you stop? I was also very upset over Brexit and drop in the pound absolutely sucks. Just when I didn’t think anything could get any worse, the US results came in this week.

    • November 13, 2016

      At the end of the diet, you have two weeks of reintroducing everything one by one to see how the different food groups you’ve eliminated do affect you. I’m mostly keeping it up now. I eat about 80% paleo and don’t eat gluten or dairy if I can possibly help it. Dairy and histamine-containing foods were big ones for me — they were both the causes of many of my health problems.

  9. Mai
    November 15, 2016

    Sounds like you and your family are having fun Lauren. I hope you’ll do it often. Love your blog.

  10. Claudia
    December 1, 2016

    Hi Lauren. I got your book for Xmas last year, and I’ve been reading your blog for ages and always love your stories and new posts. Most of all I love your motivation to dive into new cultures. I am also someone who loves to travel, but when I moved to London for a year, it was a big mistake because I felt claustrophobic after all the freedom and exciting adventures I had abroad. I finally moved to Edinburgh, which has a much nicer feel to it (in my point of view!).
    I’d be interested to know how you, as an avid traveller, feel like London would enrich your adventures, and why you think you would move there instead of staying in Lisbon (or any other city in the world)?

    Claudia x

    • December 1, 2016

      Hi Claudia! :-)

      Well, the shortest and simplest answer is that it’s home and that it’s my favourite city in the world.

      I don’t feel as though I fully belong anywhere else but there. I think it’s the best city in the world! Every time I arrive there, I’m happy, I’m excited, I feel alive. I love it. I don’t get that feeling anywhere else.

      The longer answer is that it’s close to my family, who are the most important part of my life, I have several dozen friends who live there and will remain there long-term, I understand the language and the culture, I fit in, the food scene is amazing, there’s cheap international flights, and there’s so, so, so much to discover that you’d never run out of things to see and do.

      I think as well, I don’t think of having a base as being an extension of my travels, so I’m not trying to enrich my adventures through moving somewhere. I just want to live in a place where I’m surrounded by friends and family, where I feel like I belong, and where I can be healthy, happy, settled, and stress-free. I’ll travel when I want to have adventures, but in-between trips, I just kind of want a normal, quiet, and calm life. A place to recover from the adventures :-)

      Having said all of that, I love Lisbon and I’m so happy to be here. I just know that I’ll never be a true local. I’ll never understand the culture fully or what it means to be Portuguese, no matter how long I live here. And that’s okay for now — I have lots of international and local friends and I feel settled here — but I suspect that Lisbon won’t be a long-term home because of it.

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