The Tongariro Crossing: The Hiking Saga Continues


Lauren hiking the Tongariro Crossing

My forehead rattled violently against the cool pane of the scratched and dusty bus window. I stared blankly out at the passing landscape in silence. Ominous-looking storm clouds clung to the distant mountains, occasional breaks illuminating the volcanic ash on the ground. I rummaged through my bag for the twentieth time that morning, checking off all the items I’d need for the day ahead of me — three bottles of water, Vegemite sandwiches, cereal bars and dozens of bags of dried fruit. A t-shirt, shorts, jumper and anorak — all of which I’d insisted I wouldn’t need were shoved begrudgingly to the bottom of my bag. I’d been warned that the weather could, and often does, change within seconds out here and that I’d need a full — and heavy — bag on my back in order to be fully prepared. I leaned back against my seat with a sigh and began contemplating the challenge that lay ahead of me.

The Tongariro Crossing.

25 kilometres long.

1800 metres high.

A walk that passes over active volcanoes.

A walk that is said to be New Zealand’s best one day hike.

… And I was absolutely certain it was going to be my worst. 

Hiking the Tongariro Crossing

My worries of shattered limbs and freak snowstorms, of being blown into pits of lava and collapsing from exhaustion were thankfully interrupted by the crunch of gravel as we pulled up to the start of the track. Our driver briefly outlined what to expect from our hike today, as well as what to be prepared for.

The mere mention of rescue helicopters and something called The Devil’s Staircase did nothing to calm my nerves.

With a cheery wave from Dave and a strained grimace from me, we jumped off the bus and began walking. Or, in my case, half-staggering and half-limping.

I took a deep breath.

This was it.

This was everything I’d spent the past six months working towards, this was the reason for the brand new, barely used hiking boots attached to my feet. My whole outfit, in fact, was brand new and barely worn, from my itchy woollen hiking socks to my Merino Wool t-shirt. I’d even been coerced into buying a ridiculously dorky anorak, despite my protestations that I would never in a million years ever choose to wear it.

All of this gear, all of this training, all for this moment. 

Tongariro Crossing Soda Springs turn-off

The first section of the walk, from the carpark to Soda Springs, is supposedly the easiest part of the track. The path is mostly flat with a boardwalk covering much of the uneven or damp areas. Our driver had given us a guideline of 60-90 minutes to get to Soda Springs — and then joked about how the 90 minute mark was a guideline for children and the elderly.

Within five minutes of walking at Dave’s much-too-fast pace, I was sweating, out of breath and with a stitch in my side.

“Um… guys?” I panted. “Can we just, maybe, slow down a little bit? I’m struggling to keep up.”

It was at this point that I started to wonder if I’d overestimated my abilities. Aside from a brief warm-up hike in Paihia, I was going to be quadrupling the furthest distance I had ever walked — and I was going to be doing it on steep, uneven terrain.

Oh, and did I mention that I fell over and injured my ankle a few days before the walk?

After falling on my ankle in Mount Maunganui, I’d spent the past five days confined to my bedroom, ankle raised, occasionally leaving to stagger around outside. I’d yet to tell Dave how much pain I was in so was happy when he let me rest without comment. With not much movement, I’d managed to reach the point where I was able to walk at my normal pace without feeling any pain unless I put my foot at a dodgy angle or touched my ankle.

That’s totally fine for a 25 kilometre hike, right?

I wasn’t anywhere near healed but being so desperate to complete the hike, I forced myself to remain quiet and insisted that I was fine to walk it.

I was now starting to worry that I’d made a huge mistake.

View from the Devil's Staircase, Tongariro Crossing

Every muscle in my body was telling me to stop walking, several times I opened my mouth to announce I was giving up and heading back but somehow I found it in me to continue on. Far earlier than I would have liked, I found myself at the bottom of the Devil’s Staircase, where I’d now be climbing 300 metres in altitude..

It looked brutal.

I’ve spent many years attempting to convince people that while I’m terrible at walking on flat ground, when it comes to uphill walking, I’m fast and fit and ready for anything.

The Devil’s Staircase was there to show me just how wrong I could be. 

After being told repeatedly that it’s extremely rare to have an amazing day of weather on the track, I secretly wasn’t surprised when the last of the cloud burnt off, leaving us with clear blue skies for the rest of the day. Our entire time in New Zealand so far had been full of incredible weather and not a single drop of rain — something which Dave constantly reminded me never happens.

While I’d much rather be hiking in sunshine than in rain, when it came to steep, uphill climbing, I realised that the latter would have probably made the walk far easier.

This entire section was incredibly steep, with hardly anywhere to rest. After five minutes my calves felt like they were on fire, my knees were buckling and my ankle trembling. I was only 10% of the way there.

For the best part of an hour, I whimpered, groaned and cried as I stumbled vaguely upwards, the walk leaving me drained and dehydrated. Theres no denying that the views on the way up were stunning, which made for the perfect excuse for me to stop every 20 seconds to take another photo.

But, Dave! I haven’t taken a photo from this angle!

Finally I defeated the Devil’s Staircase, bursting into tears when we reached South Crater — the only flat section of the entire hike.

Tongariro Crossing

We were almost there. 

After struggling to climb the Devil’s Staircase, the ascent to Red Crater looked incredibly easy — just an quick ten minute walk and then we’d be at the highest point of the track. Simple.

I’m sure it would have been simple had the track not suddenly turned into a huge pile of loose gravel and rocks. I found attempting to scramble up this slope to be even more challenging than climbing the sand dunes in the Sahara Desert, often feeling like I was taking one step forwards and 400 back. As I struggled to keep my balance as I clambered over the rocks, I became all too aware of just how easy it would be to stumble the wrong way and fall to my death.

Seeing dozens of people freaking out and sliding down the hill on their butts let me know that it would be even worse on the way down. I couldn’t let myself worry about that now — I just needed to make it to the top without dying.

With flailing arms, stumbling feet and a high-pitched shriek, I summoned the last of my remaining energy and elegantly propelled myself upwards, sending rocks flying and Daves ducking.

And then, amazingly, I had reached the highest point.

I had made it.

Hiking the Tongariro Crossing
Dave Hiking the Tongariro Crossing
Hiking the Tongariro Crossing
Lauren hiking the Tongariro Crossing
Red Crater Tongariro Crossing
Emerald Lakes Tongariro Crossing
Hiking the Tongariro Crossing

I’d been so intimidated by just the thought of hiking the Tongariro Crossing that I’d refused to do any research on the walk beforehand. I hadn’t even looked at any photos. I was already terrified of what could possibly be lying in store for me and definitely didn’t need to read or see anything that could put me off.

I’m sort of glad I didn’t know what to expect as it made the view from the top all the more special. Before starting the hike, I saw the Tongariro Crossing as some kind of crazy physical challenge, an incredibly tough hike that was probably going to make me feel like I was dying — I hadn’t given a single thought as to what the scenery might look like.

It was because of this that the views from the top absolutely blew my mind — I spent the entire time feeling like I was on another planet!

When I finally gave in and allowed my legs to give way and sat down to eat some lunch, I began to realise just how drained of energy I was. My legs were trembling, my ankle was throbbing and I was absolutely soaked in sweat.

I really didn’t need reminding that I was only half-way through the hike.

Due to an eruption of Mount Tongariro in November last year, this was far as we could go. Whereas you’d usually pass the Emerald Lakes and continue walking to the end of the track, we’d be turning around and heading back the way we’d come.

Dave decided he hadn’t had enough torture yet and trudged off to summit Mount Tongariro, while I slowly plodded, slipped and slid my way back down through the dangerous, loose rocks, arranging to meet him in a couple of hours at the base of Mount Doom.

I’m fairly certain they weren’t at all surprised when they stumbled upon a napping Lauren half-way down.

Napping on the Tongariro Crossing

Napping at the base of Mount Ngauruhoe. More comfortable than it looks!

By this point, I could tell that Dave was feeling frustrated with my slow pace and constant stumbling, and he soon raced off ahead in an attempt to catch the bus that would be leaving from the car park in an hour’s time. I knew it would be ridiculous for me to even attempt getting all the way down in an hour.

I was in a lot of pain.

I was happy and grateful that my ankle had managed to hold out for the hardest part of the hike but now that I was nearing the end I was beginning to struggle. Descending back down the Devil’s Staircase was the hardest part and had my face arranged in a permanent grimace. Having to put all my weight on my ankle while trying to avoid the rocks and uneven ground didn’t add up to a particularly enjoyable experience.

I forced myself to remain silent slowly found myself falling into trance-like state, keeping a steady rhythm of steps and breaths. With my new-found focus, I soon found the pain of my ankle fading and the speed of my walk increasing. Dave sped up to match my pace and we were soon overtaking hikers every few seconds as we bounded down the side of the mountain.

Celebrating with a high five once we reached Soda Springs, I happened to check the time and realised we still had half an hour until the bus left. With adrenaline coursing through my veins, I suddenly felt hugely confident that we’d be able to make it back in time. I was long past feeling pain at this point and soldiered on next to Dave, picking up speed until we were practically power walking along the boardwalk.

I don’t know what happened to me.

I’d walked around 15 kilometres over steep, rocky ground and here I was, practically racing Dave to catch the bus. I was barely out of breath, my ankle had stopped throbbing, the pain in my side had passed. I was even able to hold a conversation.

Mount Tongariro summit

Despite my incredible burst of energy, we still didn’t make it back in time.

Staggering, limping and just about ready to collapse, Dave and I arrived at the car park a few minutes after the bus had pulled away. With two hours to wait until the next one, it was time to start my recovery. Lying out in the sunshine, I nursed my injuries, massaging my feet and knees and chattering incessantly about my unbelievable transformation into a hiker. I was astounded at how I’d managed to completely block out any pain I was feeling, that I had been able to  jog alongside Dave for the best part of an hour and not even get out of breath.

I had never been able to jog for more than around 10 minutes before this.

Of course, the downside to my new-found fitness levels was that I’d never again be able to use my lack of fitness as an excuse for getting out of walking anywhere with Dave…

Hiking the Tongariro Crossing was absolutely my favourite activity from my two months I spent in New Zealand. I’d never seen a landscape so ridiculously stunning and it’ll certainly be hard to top it in the future. It was the hardest physical challenge I’ve ever put my body through — I still can’t believe I managed to triple the furthest distance I had ever walked, all while having an injured ankle.

Two years ago, before I’d started travelling, there was no way I’d ever have considered doing something like this, let alone enjoy it. I despised exercise and I was so, so unfit — in fact, when I first met Dave I used to get extremely out of breath just walking up the one flight of stairs to his apartment! Before I left home, I used to sit and wonder about all the different ways that travel would change me — would it change me at all? Would I become more confident and less accident-prone?

I never in a million years expected my travels to transform me into a hiker.

43 Comments

  1. Maria
    May 21, 2013
    Reply

    Please to have you guys in NZ x

    • May 23, 2013
      Reply

      Thanks, Maria! I loved my time in New Zealand :-)

  2. Funny! Glad you conquered your fears and the mountain. Looks like you had brilliant weather. We were pretty lucky with weather too, though there was some snow at the higher elevations. The lakes up there are absolutely gorgeous, aren’t they? Tongariro Crossing was one of the highlights of our time in New Zealand as well.

    • May 24, 2013
      Reply

      I couldn’t believe how lucky we were with the weather. I had a few friends attempt the hike in the days before and after us and they had terrible weather. The lakes were amazing!

  3. May 21, 2013
    Reply

    I don’t even know who you are anymore.

    Seriously though, this all sounds terrifying and I’d have probably cried/shuffled on my bum the whole way/ungraciously fallen to a premature death. The views from the top look amazing, though – congrats for making it up there!

    • May 24, 2013
      Reply

      I don’t either! This isn’t the Lauren of six months ago! What’s going to happen when we finally meet? I’ll bring my walking poles! ;-)

      I shuffled on my bum so many times. It was really dangerous with all the loose rocks!

  4. Dana
    May 21, 2013
    Reply

    What a great, well written and inspiring post! I will hopefully be in NZ in January, and have the same hiking opportunity. I have never been fit in my life, and being flat footed has never been a helpful factor. I hope that I can train and prepare as well as you did! Can you recommend any hiking shoes/gear?

    Kudos to hiking such a long trail with an injured ankle :D

    • May 24, 2013
      Reply

      Thank you so much, Dana! I’m flat footed and my feet roll so I was in a similar situation! My hiking boots are made by Oboz and I’m very happy with them :-)

  5. May 21, 2013
    Reply

    Just posted an article about this too! Along similar lines as im not a hiker!

  6. May 21, 2013
    Reply

    Not frustrated… energized! I could have run back up and down the trail I think :)

  7. Roisin
    May 21, 2013
    Reply

    Very motivating post – great job for making it to the top. Makes me want to start hiking :)

    And those views are really amazing!

    • May 24, 2013
      Reply

      Thanks, Roisin! You should start, it’s not as bad as you imagine ;-)

  8. Congratulations on your accomplishment! I can completely sympathize with you about how hard the first part of that descent must have been for you—when Tony & I were in Japan, we decided to take a cable car up to the summit of Mount Miyajima and then walk back down in a bid to get some exercise and save some money. I thought it would be easier than walking up the mountain, but it was actually soooo hard on our knees and calves. For the next 3 days following our descent, I could barely hobble around!

    Stories like these give me brief glimmers of hope that I could one day be a hiker. I don’t mind walking on flat ground, but anything with an incline inevitably turns into a miserable experience for me!

    • May 24, 2013
      Reply

      Thanks, Steph! I definitely found the downhill sections to be worse on my ankle, there was no way to land softly on it without looking like an idiot!

  9. May 22, 2013
    Reply

    So glad you managed to do the hike with your injured ankle. It really does look stunning. I can’t believe you fell asleep on the way back though. That is hilarious. Did other hikers not check if you weren’t dead or anything? :-)

    • May 24, 2013
      Reply

      Ha, nope, nobody asked or checked on me at all! I slept for around two hours too!

  10. May 22, 2013
    Reply

    Congrats! This sounds like a very fulfilling experience! Also, the pictures are breathtaking, I’m trying to imagine how beautiful all of that might be in 3D…:-) Wishing you a lot great hikes during your next travels!

    • May 24, 2013
      Reply

      Thanks Zof! It was one of my proudest moments :-)

  11. May 22, 2013
    Reply

    Amazing pics! It’s so cool how you’ve gone from not being all that athletic to going on massive hikes! Awesome!

    • May 24, 2013
      Reply

      Thanks, Emily! It’s been a pretty unexpected transformation, to be honest! And this isn’t the last hike from my time in New Zealand either :-)

  12. May 22, 2013
    Reply

    Well done!!! What’s your next tramp to conquer? There are plenty in NZ to choose from! I was the same-not a hiker at all, but had to do Tongariro. I’d like to think it changed me, but if I’m honest I haven’t hiked since :/

    • May 24, 2013
      Reply

      Thanks, Bobbi! Next is the Queen Charlotte Track! :-)

  13. Ryan
    May 22, 2013
    Reply

    Lauren, I am so freakin’ jealous! I was in NZ for a year and twice I missed out on the Tongariro Crossing because of weather. Looks like you went on the perfect day, those photos are stunning!

    • May 24, 2013
      Reply

      Ugh, that sucks, Ryan! I’ve heard of so many people having to skip it because of the weather, which was so hard to believe given that ours was perfect! One of the few times when travelling when I’ve had good luck, hey?! :-)

  14. Arjen - On My Way To Freedomland
    May 22, 2013
    Reply

    Still one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. Great pictures!

    • May 24, 2013
      Reply

      Thanks Arjen, it was absolutely stunning! :-)

  15. Andrea
    May 23, 2013
    Reply

    I just loved this hike! Some parts were difficult but I was too busy being amazed by everything around me to notice them too much. Granted, this was at the start of our year-long travels so I was amped and full of energy. We did no hiking at the end of the year :)

    • May 24, 2013
      Reply

      Haha, yes I’ve found myself getting lazier and lazier the longer I travel :-). I’m not sure I could have completed this hike so easily if the views hadn’t been amazing!

  16. May 25, 2013
    Reply

    … and you made it! Nothing like beating your own fear or weakness. Great job & stunning photos Lauren ‘specially the napping one”.

    • May 30, 2013
      Reply

      Thanks so much! It was one of the prettiest places I’ve ever napped!

  17. Amanda
    May 26, 2013
    Reply

    Congrats, Lauren! This hike, from what I’ve heard, definitely isn’t easy. But it does definitely sound worth it. I HAVE to do it next time I’m in NZ!

    • May 30, 2013
      Reply

      Thanks, Amanda! Yep, you have to. You’d love it so much :-)

  18. Tough hike, its a shame you can’t go through anymore, the tussock downs on the other side are quite nice.

    Love the photos too!

    My favorite part of the hike was running into a ranger with a bear bell on his bag. When asked why as NZ has no bears he replied, “Do you see any bears around here? Must be working then.”

  19. BakoymaTravels
    December 30, 2013
    Reply

    I am hiking this in a week’s time. I have just decided that I’ll make it, so that’s it. I estimate it’s gonna be a b*thc however, so very, very well done, Lauren! I love the picture of you napping :-D

    Did you see any places good for a rest and a little lunch?

    • November 14, 2015
      Reply

      There weren’t too many places to stop, apart from right at the top with the view over the Emerald Lakes. That would be a great lunch spot.

  20. Ruchi
    March 7, 2014
    Reply

    Hi Lauren,

    I live in New Zealand and have never done this trail… My husband and in-laws booked accommodation last week to do the Tongariro crossing during Easter break. I am super unfit right now and really dreading this hike. I have a feeling that I will be crying and cursing everyone the whole time. I really enjoyed reading your article and how you found strength towards the end. Wondering if I can gather enough courage to do this since I will be moving away from NZ for good this year. This will be my last opportunity to do this hike. *sigh*… Really enjoyed looking at your photos. Atleast now I have an idea of what to expect. :)

    Cheers,
    Ruchi

    • November 14, 2015
      Reply

      I really hope you can work up the courage to do so, Ruchi! It’s a spectacular hike and well-worth the pain of getting there. Let me know how it goes if you do decide to do it! :-)

  21. Michelle
    March 30, 2014
    Reply

    Hi Lauren

    We have just completed this Crossing yesterday with our Master 7 in tow! The last time I did it was 24 years ago in my last year of high school – amazing what your mind forgets about how ‘difficult’ something is! In all honesty, I found the downhill FAR worse than the uphill. Anyway, we managed it (I too hadn’t done walking going into it and also had a dodgy ankle which screamed at me on the downhill leg) and got all the way through the length of the Crossing.

    As you mention, the views are spectacular, the geography unforgiving (especially the next day – ones body certainly let’s you know about it (unless you have youth on your side – Master 7 when asked how his legs were replied, “my legs are awesome!”) but I am sure that it is something that our son will remember for the rest of his life. He wants to do Mt Ngaruahoe at some stage but perhaps I’ll let Dad take him on that trek without me!

    • November 14, 2015
      Reply

      Amazing! It’s funny how the downhill is always so much worse than the uphill isn’t it? It kills my knees and ankles.

  22. Nazreen
    April 1, 2014
    Reply

    It was really nice to read your blog :) I am doing Tongariro crossing in 3 weeks and have been training the last few weeks. Basically highest level of incline on the treadmill 5 days a week haha. The pictures are amazing and I am going to use your tip and block out any pain by just enjoying the view :)

    • November 13, 2015
      Reply

      Hope you enjoy the hike, Nazreen! It’s a good one :-)

  23. TIMOTHY PRICE
    December 15, 2019
    Reply

    Thanks for writing a ‘true’ description of the experience of the ‘hike’.
    I did it a year ago with my grandson and son. Not easy but very rewarding. Looking forward to reading more about your journey.

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