If you had asked me for my opinion on Budapest at any point over the previous year, you would have been met with an awkward silence and a lot of eye rolling.
I visited Budapest in August last year and it was one of the most underwhelming cities I’ve been to.
It was too big.
It was dull.
It felt like “just another European city”
It was boring.
I had no plans to return to Budapest but when Dave and I began planning our Interrail adventure, I discovered that he’d always dreamed of visiting. Now was my opportunity to give the city a second chance.
Almost one year later to the day, I arrived in Budapest.
Despite having a mostly negative view of the city, there were several places I’d enjoyed on my previous visit and I was more than happy to head back and show Dave around.
I revisited the impressive Heroes’ Square, the largest square in Budapest and one of my favourite places to hang out and relax. After taking hundreds of photos of the beautiful Millennial monument, we wandered across the road and found Budapest’s City Park. It was here last year that I discovered a bizarre and extremely loud Hungarian Bryan Adams tribute band at one of the worst restaurants in the world ($5 for one lukewarm, soggy chicken leg).
In the heat of the midday sun however, the crowds head to nearby Szechenyi thermal baths leaving the park quiet and serene – this was much more enjoyable. Sitting on a park bench under the shade of a tree, I couldn’t help but smile. To my surprise, I was having a wonderful day and seriously enjoying exploring the city.
My feelings for Budapest were beginning to change and I was struggling to understand why. I felt uncomfortable, embarrassed that I had been so quick to judge this city the first time around.
I wanted to tell Dave about my changing feelings but I knew what his reaction would be, I knew the amount of mocking I would have to endure for the rest of our time here. Lost in my thoughts, I bit down on my lip, forcing myself to remain silent.
It was too soon to come clean; I needed more time.
Passing St. Stephen’s Basilica on our way to the Houses of Parliament, I found that not even the approaching thunderclouds could dampen my spirits. As we wandered through cafe-lined streets, I felt tears welling in my eyes as I soaked up the wonderful atmosphere and stunning architecture.
I was finding it increasingly hard to keep my growing love for Budapest a secret.
I didn’t get a chance to see the Houses of Parliament up-close on my first visit, opting instead to view it from the other side of the river. This was a big mistake. From afar you just can’t appreciate how large and intricate the design is – it is even said that Imre Steindl, the guy who built it examined every single spire individually to make sure they were up to standard.
At this point, I honestly had no idea why I had found Budapest so dull and ugly the first time around – this city was seriously beautiful.
So what’s changed? What’s so different this time around?
Several things.
Last year, I was staying in a hotel quite far away from the centre of Budapest. As you know, walking really isn’t one of my strong points (I have bad knees), so having to walk for half an hour before I’d even see anything would have me in pain, exhausted and ready to head back to my room. This time, I was staying in a very central area, within a ten minute walk from the main sights.
The fact that I’d visited much of the tourist attractions while I was here last time meant that I didn’t have to rush around and try to cram a ton of sightseeing into a few days, which is something that I find extremely unenjoyable. Instead, I was able to take my time and explore the city at my own pace.
Finally, the first time I visited Budapest, it was straight after Ljubljana, one of my favourite places in the world. This time I visited after Frankfurt, Prague and Bratislava – three places that left me feeling very underwhelmed.
Could the place I visit previously really affect my opinion of somewhere that much?
Whatever the reason, I was slowly starting to fall in love with Budapest…
And then there was our final night.
We met up with Julia and Scott, another travel blogging couple who also met through the wonderful medium of Twitter, for dinner and an evening of checking out the ruin bars of Budapest.
How had I never heard of these before?!
From the outside, they look no different to most of the buildings in the Pest district but inside each bar has a unique and quirky personality. Located in the old Jewish quarter in the ruins of abandoned buildings, these bars are filled with mismatched furniture and decorations that look like they’ve been sourced from junkyards and flea markets.
We went to Szimpla Kert, which has been open since 2004. It’s the first, and most well-known, ruin bar and arguably an institution of Budapest.
It was the best bar I’ve ever been to.
The place was huge. There was a haphazard array of torn-up sofas, old chairs and benches thrown together around unsteady tables. The front half of an old car was being used as a table; bathtubs and dentist chairs as seats. Rooms were filled with sewing machines, birdcages and old film projectors showing Russian cartoons and bizarre silent movies. From the ceiling hung a mixture of mismatched lampshades and smashed chandeliers.
Walking through a maze of equally quirky rooms and feeling overwhelmed by all the options, we eventually settled on staying in a small, slightly quieter room, taking a seat overlooking the downstairs courtyard. With beers priced at just $2 we were set for the night and spent the rest of the evening talking about how amazing this place was.
If I lived in Budapest, I’d be going here every night.
I awoke the next morning with a heavy heart and a pounding headache. Our two days in Budapest had been far from enough. Our bags were packed, the keys to the apartment had been returned. It was now time for us to leave. As we plodded towards the train station, I tried to ignore the waves of sadness that were washing over me like an emotional tsunami.
My opinion of Budapest had completely changed and there was only one more thing left to do.
“Dave…”
I cleared my throat, hesitating; opening my mouth before shutting it tightly again.
Could I finally say the words out loud? Could I finally tell Dave what I’d spent the past few days thinking?
It was time for me to swallow my pride and come clean.
“Dave, I… I really, really like Budapest… I don’t want to leave.”
My trip through Central and Eastern Europe was made possible by the lovely people at Interrailnet.com.
[Image via: webmoof/Flickr]
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In July 2011 I left England for what was supposed to be a one year trip around the world. Within a few months of leaving I knew that a year would never be enough. I now work online and travel permanently, seeking misadventures in unique, beautiful and fascinating places. Read more.
I'm here to show you how not to travel. Since I've been on the road I've been "poked" during a massage in Bangkok, punched a scammer in Shanghai, been attacked by monkeys in Bali, sat next to a dead woman on a boat in Laos and so much more. I call these The Incidents and you can see a full list of them here.
I love Budapest ! It’s a pretty city. Too bad I had only one day. YAY! Now you love it too :D
DebbZie recently posted..Singapore: Food Porn
It is a gorgeous city! I can’t believe I thought it was ugly on my first visit…
…and what did Dave say? Lol, ahhh Lauren you’ve made me really want to visit now! xx
Scarlett recently posted..I have an addiction…
He laughed. A lot. And mocked me quite a bit. And made the assumption that I loved it because I was with him this time around.
It’s wicked that you changed your mind… I love how that happens! Gives you more reason to revisit the places you’ve been to before.
Margyle recently posted..A Little Rain Never Hurt Anyone?
I love it too – I always feel HORRIBLE when I visit a place and end up hating it. I know I can’t love everywhere I visit, but I get so upset when I don’t.
So happy I can remove Budapest from my hate list!
Revisiting a place and discovering things that make you like it so much better than the previous time around is a rare joy in travelling – I’m so happy for you that you liked it better the second time around! What was Dave’s reaction?
Lindsey recently posted..I Just Booked My One Way Ticket…
Thank you, Lindsey! It was so unexpected! :)
Dave found it extremely funny after I’d spent months telling him how lame Budapest is.
Szimpla Kert bar has been added to my To-Do-Go list for Budapest. Glad you liked it this time!
memographer recently posted..Why Do Buddhist Monks Wear Orange Robes and Shave Heads?
Great decision – it’s amazing!
I think the fact that you rediscovered the city with someone also helped changed your opinion of it. Good company often makes a huge difference.
Sunee recently posted..Meandering Through the Midlands
I visited previously with an ex-boyfriend of mine so I wasn’t travelling solo.
But I agree that sometimes the people you travel with can affect your opinion of a place :)
Love the idea of the ruin bars – never been to Budapest but I’ve always wanted to see them!
Naomi recently posted..Life at the #BlogHouse: serious intimidation in Besalu, Spain
They were seriously cool, you’d love them!
I first visited Budapest 5 years ago and loved it immediately. I spent some time traveling in Hungary and think it is one of the most underrated destinations in Europe. I’ve done photos posts and written a little about the country but it’s very beautiful and interesting. Glad you’ve come to like Budapest!
Jeremy Branham recently posted..Why I took off my pants for Scottevest
After seeing Eger and Budapest (in a new light!) this time around Hungary has certainly gone up in my estimations!
Szimpla is probably my most favourite bar in all Budapest too
Ian [EagerExistence] recently posted..Bucket-List: Interview with Lauren from “The Mad To Live” blog
Isn’t it AMAZING?!
Love your photo of the Parliament Building; looks stunning! Glad your opinion changed too, I’ve never been but it’s on my wish-list!
Kerri recently posted..5 Fun Things to Do in Funchal
Loved reading this post. I’m so happy you gave Budapest a second chance… it’s my favorite city!
Sarah recently posted..Exploring the Blue Ridge Parkway In Autumn
HA! I KNEW you couldn’t truly hate Budapest. :P
I’m so glad it treated you better this time around!
Amanda recently posted..Albania is Weird
What a timely post… I’ve been in Budapest for the last week – my first time. It is one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever seen, and big. After a week I’ve barely scratched the surface!
Beautiful photos of Budapest. I’m glad to see your take on the city. I hope someday that my travels take me there. It looks amazing! I understand completely how lodging location can affect a trip. Being more centrally located makes a huge difference and really makes it easier to see the heart of a city. I’m enjoying your blog.
Gayla~ recently posted..Lucca part 1
So how much mockery did you get from Dave after that last line?! Lol, I can’t wait to get there in a month!
Kieu ~ GQ trippin recently posted..India: Travel Costs & Highlights
A girlfriend spend six weeks in Europe last year and said Budapest was her favourite city. I loved her photos of the intricate tiling designs on the rooftops.
Yeah, those bars were damn cool, weren’t they? Still regret passing up our free glass of champagne though.
Scott recently posted..Where Are You Going
It was exactly the same for me, first time I visited I wasn’t overly impressed and had no desire to return but it was in my destiny to return and this time round I had such a good time. Sometimes either your mood, state of mind, stuff happening in your life at the time can can have an effect on your visit in either a positive or negative way.
Glad you changed your mind about Budapest! :)In my opinion, it’s one of the most gorgeous capitals of Europe – would go back in a heartbeat.
Yes yes yes so glad you changed your mind. Hungary is probably my second favourite European country. The people omg they go so out of their way to help you. And you never feel scared or anxious what more could you want I love it x
George recently posted..Guest Post: Tag der Deutschen Einheit
During the day, I felt the same – I wasn’t overly impressed. Maybe it was also the scorching heat. I fell in love with Budapest at night. We made friends with the lions at, and spiders on webs weaved along, the chain bridge. After we crossed the bridge, we walked up a path by the light of a cell phone to Citadella, stopping for night time photos along the way. There are some great views of the city from that path and Citadella.
Dear Lauren!
I love this article, so I shared it on Hungary Tourism Plc’s official Facebook page!
http://www.facebook.com/HungaryTourism
Best regards,
Peter
e-marketing team
I’m hoping to go to Budapest next summer. We want to travel around Hungary and see the sites. I have relatives in Ajak that I have never met or even talked to. My Grandparents moved to Canada in the 1920′s from Hungary.I’m really looking forward to experiencing my family’s heritage for the first time.
My brother lives in Budapest (near the covered market/ Corvinus University) and Szimpla is his favorite bar too- he heads there about once a week.
Come to think of it I haven’t been there in awhile, need to suggest we revisit when I visit him this weekend. :)
Yvette recently posted..Mantua, Italy- A City with No Tourists
I visited Budapest about 3 years and really loved the city. I visited in October and there was a food and wine festival on which was great. Unfortunately it rained most days whilst we were there and I seemed to make a habit of slipping down the wet stairs to the subway…very embarrassing!
Jennifer recently posted..India: Things we miss & many more we don’t…
i love budapest, went there a year ago today and i will always have a place in my heart for it.the city itself is very big and very beautiful but what also made it for me was the hungarian people ,they are very proud and are lovely and are always asking what you think of budapest.when you tell them you think it and their women are beautiful(very beautiful) they are over the moon about it.i really dont have a bad word to say about budapest only good things about it and its people and after ireland it is my 2nd favourite destination.