I surprised myself when I first arrived in Morocco by really falling hard for Marrakech, somewhere that I was convinced I’d hate. And then when I had an amazing, life-changing experience in the Sahara Desert, I thought it was settled.
I love Morocco.
After having such a fantastic introduction to the country in Marrakech, I knew I could quite easily spend the entire month there. I had to move on though as there was so much more of the country I wanted to see!
My next stop was the beachside town of Essaouira.
I’d heard from every single person who’d been to Essaouira that it was the place to go to chill out and relax. If you need to get away from the chaos of Marrakech and Fes then your best option is head to Essaouira.
After researching a little and finding out that it used to be a pitstop on the hippie trek from Marrakech in the 60′s with Jimi Hendrix, Bob Marley and the Rolling Stones passing through, I knew I would love it.
I adore hippie beach towns!
And for the first few days I adored Essaouira.
I was staying in a wonderful hostel located right in the heart of the medina. There were noticeably fewer people than in Marrakech, the beaches were mostly empty and it felt like the locals were much friendlier.
I spent my first few days sitting on the beach, amused at seeing everybody sunbathing while covered from head to toe and getting lost in the ridiculously photogenic medina while trying to find somewhere to eat. I’d wander through the fish market of an evening, fascinated with watching the fisherman trying to desperately sell their freshly caught fish and manta rays to passing people – there were dozens of hole in the wall restaurants just a few metres away that happily cook your fish for you right there.
When I wasn’t out exploring, I was sunbathing on my hostel’s roof terrace, napping in a hammock or drinking amazing mint tea.
I was happy in Essaouira and I found myself extending my stay every single morning.
But suddenly something changed.
Prior to arriving in Morocco I had never heard of the Gnaoua and World Music Festival, a 3 day event that is held every June in Essaouira – and it just so happened that I timed my visit with this enormous music festival.
A few days before the festival I noticed a huge change in the vibe of Essaouira.
The town usually has a population of just 60,000 people.
Over 400,000 people attend the festival.
Yes, it’s really that insane.
Suddenly, my chilled out, relaxing beach town turned into an overwhelming mass of people.
And with the festival goers came the touts, the scams and the doubling of prices. When I went to renew my hostel stay on the first day of the festival, I was told the prices had now doubled because of the festival.
I found myself really starting to dislike Essaouira.
I suddenly had hassle from men in the street – grabbing me, trying to touch my breasts, whispering in French in my ear and then calling me a slut and a whore when I walked away. I could no longer sit and enjoy a meal without a dozen different men sitting down with me and trying to convince me to go back to their house. There were crowds everywhere and there was nowhere to escape.
I decided to try and stick it out.
My plan was to hide away in my hostel for the three days and wait for the chaos to pass.
This was a really bad decision.
Having to deal with the hassle and abuse for those three days drove me absolutely insane and by the end of it I was exhausted and stressed and had a desperate urge to flee the country.
From that moment onwards, I struggled in Morocco. I was so drained from the constant battling, the stares and the touts that I just didn’t have the patience to deal with it anymore. Every time a man approached me, touched me and tried to talk to me I felt like screaming.
I didn’t have the energy to travel in Morocco anymore.
Had my timing been slightly different, I have no doubt that I would have left Essaouira loving it as much as I did when I first arrived. Had it not worn me down I think my overall experience in Morocco would have been better too.
Have you ever travelled to a place at the wrong time?
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In July 2011 I left England for what was supposed to be a one year trip around the world. Within a few months of leaving I knew that a year would never be enough. I now work online and travel permanently, seeking misadventures in unique, beautiful and fascinating places. Read more.
I'm here to show you how not to travel. Since I've been on the road I've been "poked" during a massage in Bangkok, punched a scammer in Shanghai, been attacked by monkeys in Bali, sat next to a dead woman on a boat in Laos and so much more. I call these The Incidents and you can see a full list of them here.
What a beautiful town! It’s a pity you had to experience such nasty things :(
DebbZie recently posted..Indonesia: A Month of Festive
that’s really awful! too bad your stay in this lovely town was so spoiled. was in that bad in marrakesh too?
kami recently posted..Photo of the week #2 – Sighisoara
I loved Essaouira and Morocco in general, but I can understand how one bad day can turn the rest into nightmares. But in general, the locals I found were friendly, and every time somebody sat down with me, they wanted to share mint tea and talk about life. I only had one guy keep touching my butt until I yelled and shamed him in public and the local woman came to my defence. Otherwise, after living there for 2 months, the locals were incredible. Too bad your whole experience was tainted by that.
Chrystal McKay recently posted..7 Hostel Monsters – Part 1
Photos look beautiful, Lauren.
Sorry for the stress. I hate touts. I am ready to hit anyone who comes to me saying “Hi, where are you from?” :)
memographer recently posted..Top 10 Shocking Asia Experiences
Fantastic pictures! Yes, Morocco can be intense and a bit much sometimes. I think the people mean well most of the time, but still. Glad you enjoyed the beginning at least!
Adam Pervez recently posted..What A $5 Hotel Looks Like In Cambodia
I loved London when I first arrived on the 29th of July. I was so excited to be here for the first time and was amazed at everything I saw around me. But having my first introduction to the city be right smack dab in the middle of the Olympics was not the fairytale I thought it would be. The tube was ridiculously crowded all the time, there were road blocks and detours you would have to take to get anywhere. After a while I really just wished that all the tourists would go home so I could experience everyday London life the way it usually is. It’s gotten better, because the Olympics are over, but there’s still the Paralympics and so there are still crowds of tourists. I think i’ll only be in olympic-free london a month before I leave for Bangkok.
Katie recently posted..My Top Picks- Week #2
That’s interesting Katie – I live in London and found the city to be quieter than usual throughout the Olympics. My train to work was half empty and there didn’t seem to be half the amount of tourists around that there normally are during summer. I think the British government went on a bit too much about how busy London would be during the Olympics so everyone stayed away or took holidays.
This sums up my experience of Morocco exactly! Except, I had more trouble when I spent 3 weeks in Marrakech. Essaouira for me was peaceful in comparison.
I would honestly move to Morocco in a heartbeat if it wasn’t for how some of the men treat women. It’s just too much. They really need to re-educate their men or they will seriously scare off the tourists.
Runaway Jane recently posted..First Impressions Of Mykonos Island, Greece
Ohh yes.. Travelling anywhere is China during any holiday is a nightmare !! Lol
Sorry.. I typed too fast : i meant IN china lol
I was in London during Wimbledon and could not find a single bed. Had to crash on a friends hotel room floor but I was greatful for it.
Eurgh that’s terrible, Lauren. I wonder if they’d speak to Moroccan women like that? Probably not or they’d get a smack around the face I bet.
That’s really not on about the hostel doubling the rates either – I mean honestly, that’s no way to treat someone who’s already been a guest for a few nights, regardless of whether or not there’s a big festival going on.
Tom @ Waegook Tom recently posted..Seoul Grand Park
I’m from,Morocco and a fan of Essaouira! i love the Gnaoua Festival. What has happened to you is a pity! i’m not proud to be moroccan when hearing this…at you least you would understand one thing: most of the people vositing the festival are from marrackech, casablanca…big cities, small education, few politeness..
In the name of all moroccan, or the ones that value the respect of ant woman, I want to tell you sorry.
Nect time when you are back in Essaouira or Morocco please get in touch. i’m married with three lovely kids and a wondrful wife who is originated from Essaouira. Her grandfather is the one owning Patisserie Driss since 1928.
Take care.
sad to hear about this on your trip… maybe that’s why my partner never let me go alone (but def want to try solo travel sometime soon)… hope these instances don’t happen again anymore…. safe and happy travels! ^_^