Everybody said I’d hate Marrakech.
Even I fully expected to hate it.
And it’s true that within just a few minutes of arriving (on a delayed flight at 2am!) I felt my rage levels rapidly increasing. It was everything I’d expected it to be, and everything I dislike in a city – it was large, crowded, noisy, polluted, chaotic, intense. I had a feeling that it wouldn’t be long before I was huddled up in a corner of my hostel, trembling and refusing to go outside.
On my first day, however, something miraculous happened. On my first day, I discovered a side to Marrakech that I wasn’t aware existed. Marrakech was fascinating; it was beautiful. Oases of palm and orange trees in tranquil gardens that made it surprisingly easy to escape the hustle and bustle – making the city much less intimidating. I even found myself enjoying the food – ALL of the food!
Much to my surprise, I found myself really, really liking this city.
Astonishingly, my first few days in Marrakech were some of the least challenging of my entire time in Morocco. I met Katrina, another solo traveller, at the Riad where I was staying and immediately I was grateful to have found someone who was also terrified to venture out alone. We decided to hire a guide for the day to help us navigate.
This was an excellent decision.
The medina in Marrakech is absolutely insane. Terracotta houses and shops line a claustrophobic labyrinth of streets filled with tourists, vendors, cars, scooters, donkeys, camels and just about anything you can think of. Within seconds of entering, expect your senses, and your sanity, to be completely overwhelmed by the craziness.
On our way to the souks, we first stopped off at the Bahia Palace, a 19th century palace and gardens with some amazing architecture – it’s worth a visit just for the incredibly intricate artwork and ceilings.
And then it was time to venture into the madness of the souks.
One of the many benefits of having a guide accompanying us was that most of the vendors left us alone and we experienced very little hassle. There were still shouts of “English!” “England!” “Fish and chips!” “See you later, alligator!” (the last one providing hours of entertainment and confusion – where on earth have they heard that?! ) but there was less aggression in their sales technique, it wasn’t as intimidating.
And so, for the next three hours, we explored. First, we checked out the fabric and clothing section.
And of course, we couldn’t escape without trying on our own desert-style headscarves!
Next up, were the gorgeous and vibrant lantern stalls. This was one of my favourite areas and I so desperately wanted to buy one to hang from my backpack…
We spent a few minutes visiting the leather shops of the souks, which were hot, noisy and scary, prompting us to quickly leave.
And then, finally, after a quick lunch of chicken tagine, we climbed up to the roof terrace of a nearby shop and were rewarded with views over the whole medina, as well as the Atlas Mountains in the distance.
After spending much of the morning and early afternoon walking around in the sweltering heat, Katrina and I were both exhausted and cut short our tour to head back to our hostel to nap.
However, we then found ourselves with a slight problem. When almost every single street in Marrakech looks like the alleyway in the photo below, we ended up extremely lost for over an hour and found that we needed a guide just to find our way back!
If you’re visiting Marrakech for the first time, I can wholeheartedly recommend hiring a guide on your first day to take you around the souks and to see some of the main attractions of the city. I have no doubt that had I been wandering around on my own I would have ended up seeing just 10% of what I experienced with my guide – and would have spent the majority of my time absolutely lost and terrified.
Indeed, one of the true delights of Marrakech is the joy of wandering aimlessly through the alleyways and medina, but I can honestly say that after having explored first with somebody who knew where everything is I felt a lot more comfortable walking around in the days that followed.
I paid approximately 100 MAD (11USD) to hire a guide for a half-day.
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This is my city ♥
Glad to hear that you like it ^^
I loved it! :)
Thanks for the tip about the guide! I am thinking of visiting Marrakeck with a friend by January and we’re planning to do things on our own. I guess hiring a guide is better than waste time being lost and unsure. Nice pics!
Micamyx|Senyorita recently posted..Travel Photo of the Week: Rosetta Stone | London, UK
It can also be fun getting lost on your own, I just found it much less intimidating and scary when I’d been taken around by an expert first – I had a better idea of how everything worked there!
Nice post. To be honest I loved the getting lost in the madness and the haggling. We hired a guide in Fez and got completely scammed they kept taking us places to get hassled and the ripped off at lunch. He then demanded double. So you have to be careful too!
George recently posted..Helpx: Volunteering a Different Way
Yep, I made sure to hire a guide through my riad and we told him at the beginning we had no money and didn’t want to buy anything so he didn’t take us anywhere dodgy and scammy.
I love the vibrant colors of the souks.
DebbZ recently posted..Beijing: Favorite Shots of the Forbidden City
Me too, Debbz! They’re so photogenic :)
Beautiful! I want to visit Morocco sooo badly. I would undoubtedly buy at least one of those lamps and ship it home. They are too pretty to pass up!!
Maggie recently posted..Jeju Loveland
Aren’t they gorgeous?!
Good idea to hire a guide, especially if alone and there for the first time! Great photos too, the ceiling mosaics are pretty.
Cheryl recently posted..The Making Of The Floral Carpet In Brussels.
I loved how detailed the ceilings were :) And yes, hiring a guide made the experience much less stressful when I was exploring alone!
You found your way back in an hour?!? I’m impressed. It took us almost six, but we were hopelessly lost somewhere outside the medina and refused to use a guide since so many people kept trying to force their “guide” services on us.
My favorite sales call (along with “See you later, alligator!” obviously) was “Feast your eyes!”
Daniel McBane recently posted..Riding a Possessed Camel in Jaisalmer
WOW, six hours?! I would have been crying by that point! And feast your eyes? Hahahahaha!
It’s funny, but ineffective. One of the young berber vendors really liked the girl I was traveling with and wanted to trade me for his store, meaning he would go back to Canada with her and I would stay and sell his tacky souvenirs.
I gave it a shot and copied his “Feast your eyes!” yells in front of his shop for a few minutes, but no one came and feasted. I failed…and I’m guessing he’s still single.
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I’d really love to go to Marrakech. I’m sure the chaos is a lot to handle, but it sounds like such an interesting city. The guide sounds like it was a good idea.
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I’m glad that Marrakech was my first destination in Morocco because had it been last I would have despised it! I found it best to get the “difficult” places over with first before you’re exhausted and stressed with everything!
I loved the chaos of Marrakech, especially at night, that’s when the real magic comes out. And the oh how I miss the tagines….
Pete recently posted..One Truth About Our Travels
I loved the tagines but after a month of having them for every single meal I ended up feeling like a tagine…!
Wow, gorgeous pictures. The patterns on those buildings are incredible!
Callie recently posted..THE SCARIEST THING THAT’S EVER HAPPENED TO ME
Thanks, Callie! I loved wandering around the different palaces in Marrakech.
I’m turning green with envy over here! I’d love to see you travelling with a lantern hanging off your backpack though ;)
Lindsey recently posted..An Unexpected Lesson from Sir David Attenborough’s A Life on Earth
Hahahaha, it would be AMAZING and not at all annoying…
I absolutely agree with you about the benefit of hiriing a guide. Though not quite the same thing, when I visited Europe a few years back, my friend and I spent our first day/night in Berlin being absolutely terrified! The Germans seemed so cold and mean and it wasn’t until we took a walking tour that we really began to feel comfortable with the city and the people. Those little interactions can go a long way towards building your confidence (and helping you get your bearings!).
Steph (@ 20 Years Hence) recently posted..Tokyo District Spotlight: Asakusa
It’s definitely a great idea if you’re a little intimidated by a brand new city!
Great photos, Lauren! We’re dying to go to Morocco. Hopefully in 2013…
Bret @ Green Global Travel recently posted..INTERVIEW: The Wilderness Society’s Alan Rowsome On The Economics Of Conservation
I hope you get to go in 2013, Bret! You’d love it :)
Wow, I must admit I’m surprised to hear that you loved it so much! Marrakech definitely is one of those polarizing-type cities – it seems like you either love it or hate it. Glad to hear you loved it!
Amanda recently posted..This is Bulgaria?!?
Oh my god, me too! I have to say though that it was probably because it was the first few days and I was full of energy and excitement. A week later I was SO STRESSED by everything! Had I left Marrakech until last I probably would have hated it!
I’ve only been to Fez and a camel trek in Morocco but I defnitely want to go back… maybe with a male travel partner though!
Jade Johnston recently posted..Australia – Katherine Gorge Hiking Opportunities
Great photos. I really want to go here!! It’s been put off for now, but we are definitely visiting Morocco one day.
Christy recently posted..Let the Tropical Adventures Begin!
I miss Marrakesh =( I went about 4 times while living in Morocco with an American-Moroccan friend of mine. Her family owns a ryad (as of, majority of her extended family from her mother’s side still live there). I miss that home, those lengthy dinners, and great cultural conversations…le sigh
great photos, I’ve been through every single place you shot =D I would also recommend readers to simply get the couch surfer or a student currently living there
- Maria Alexandra
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Hey Lauren, Great photos. I so badly wanted to visit this city since a long time and now I am even more determined after reading your blog.
I remember when I went to Marrakech, the two things I loved best was 1) The sheer chaos of it all. It had its beauty and somehow worked, and was fascinating to watch.
2) The Mint Tea. I could drink this for the rest of my life. I loved it
i love the photos! especially the tiled ceilings! cant wait to book Morocco…. thanks for sharing… ^_^
I landed in Tangier by myself from a Ferry via Tarifa, Spain and I was so nerved wracked by the people howling and following me that I got on a ferry right back to Spain. I wish I had made it as far as Marrakech. Next time, with someone.
Sherry recently posted..For Love and Wine in Montepulciano
Great tip about the guide. I haven’t been there myself but it looks like one of those cities where you’ve got no hope of seeing the really cool stuff without the help of a local expert.
Turtle recently posted..Tombs of Fethiye
I had a similar experience with Cairo. At first I thought I would hate it, and I did for the first 24 hours, but then it grew on me and I found myself really like the city. I have yet to visit Morocco but it looks interesting
Cam @ Traveling Canucks recently posted..From Our Lens – Exploring Zurich, Switzerland
Spectacular colours in this one Lauren :)
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Great post and photos Lauren! My wife and I hope to make it to Marrakesh at some point (maybe!). We did a day trip to Tangier from Spain a few months ago- total disaster!
I can imagine this “see you later alligator” fella, haha. I was so hot, tired and fed up with be hassled in the narrow streets of Tangier and one guy said to me “hey, don’t worry, be happy.” lol
http://wanderlustmarriage.com/?p=430
Where did you hire your guide from? I might do the same :]
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