“Why you go there? Very hard and so expensive to get to. No tourists go. Only one boat a day.”
Dave and I exchanged glances and I knew he was wondering if we were making the right decision.
We’d travelled to the Thai islands a month ago and I had expected so much more; Koh Chang, Koh Phi Phi, Koh Lanta – I’d enjoyed my time on them but they weren’t the vision of paradise I’d held in my mind for so long.
After spending two weeks living on Koh Phi Phi and working for over 10 hours a day I needed a break. I didn’t want to look at my laptop any more, I didn’t want to write another word. I just wanted to leave my room and go outside.
I was burnt out and I needed a change of scenery.
I needed an island without internet.
I desperately wanted to spend a week away from the online world, getting away from tourists, spending every single day sunbathing on a beach and doing nothing. And it needed to be cheap.
Did such a place even exist anymore?
I spent a week researching and I found the island that I believed to match everything I needed:
Koh Yao Noi.
Information about the island was scarce. I could only find two websites with useful information, and they were years out of date. I struggled to find out how to get there, what was there and where to stay.
However, when I saw that there was no internet, very few tourists, secluded beaches and and found a guesthouse website with this amazing view,
I had made my decision.
We were going to Koh Yao Noi.
From the second I had arrived, I couldn’t wipe the enormous grin off my face. How had I never heard of this place before?!
It was perfect. Absolutely my definition of paradise.
It had friendly locals.
The people of Koh Yao Noi were some of the friendliest I’ve come across in Thailand and that’s really saying something.
Walking around the island, it was not uncommon to see scooters parked up with the keys still in the ignition. It felt safe and like everyone was looking out for one another.
One day, I waiting by the side of the road while Dave dropped off his bag at the room and in the space of 10 minutes, I’d had around 10 locals pull up next to me on a scooter and ask if I needed a lift somewhere!
It had the perfect secluded beach.
Renting a scooter for the day, Dave and I were exploring the island when we came across a small wooden sign with the word “beach” scrawled across it in marker pen. It was pointing towards a tiny dirt track winding through the middle of a forest.
How could we not follow it?
It was just a few minutes later that most of the track had disappeared and we found ourselves swerving precariously around curves, urging the scooter over hills and attempting to dodge the branches and spider webs that blocked our path. Several times we considered turning around and heading back – surely we should have reached the beach after 20 minutes of riding? I desperately clung to Dave, convinced I was about to get thrown from the back of the scooter.
When we did eventually arrive at the beach though? We had it all to ourselves.
Stretching along the east coast of the island for what seemed like miles, there was not a single person in sight and it stayed that way for the three hours we remained there.
It had varied landscapes
With the east side of the island filled with deserted beaches, the west is all about the rice paddies and water buffalos. Exploring the west side of island by scooter, we passed through rubber plantations and fields lined with mangroves before reaching the mountains and rainforests in the centre of the island.
We even stopped off at a holy spring – the point on the island where freshwater pours into the sea, making it possible to drink from the ocean. Of course, when we went there the tide was out and I ended up drinking swamp water that had me terrified I was about to die for the next day.
There were actually things to do.
You’d imagine that being on such a quiet island would mean that there would be hardly anything to do, but it was actually the opposite!
One of the highlights was renting a kayak for the day and paddling out to Koh Nok, a tiny island about 2km from Koh Yao Noi. It took just over an hour to get there and the journey consisted of whimpering, crying and moaning as I battled the tides to get there. It was worth it though, as we got to spent the afternoon on our own private island.
Koh Yao Noi is located on the edge of Phang Nga National Park and we hired a longtail for the day to explore the amazing islands. Koh Hong, in particular, was incredible. The beach was immaculate, the sand felt like talcum powder under my feet and with very few people sharing the beach with us, it felt like I was in paradise.
The week I spent on Koh Yao Noi was one of my best in Thailand. The laid-back feeling of the island was incredibly contagious and I was finally able to go offline and really feel relaxed for the first time in months. I read books, I wandered down to the beach to sunbathe, I ate good food, I spent hours lying in the hammock on my balcony listening to the crickets.
It wasn’t anything amazing, but to me it was perfection.
Posted by .
In July 2011 I left England for what was supposed to be a one year trip around the world. Within a few months of leaving I knew that a year would never be enough. I now work online and travel permanently, seeking misadventures in unique, beautiful and fascinating places. Read more.
I'm here to show you how not to travel. Since I've been on the road I've been "poked" during a massage in Bangkok, punched a scammer in Shanghai, been attacked by monkeys in Bali, sat next to a dead woman on a boat in Laos and so much more. I call these The Incidents and you can see a full list of them here.
This really sounds like heaven! I might be emailing you for more details about how to get there and the website for the guesthouse since I am almost 100% sure I’ll be spending a month in Thailand soon (most probably starting July 20th or around)
Someday I’ll Be There – Mina recently posted..Friends on the Road VS Your Itinerary
Hey Mina! Feel free to email me anytime! :) I’ll be happy to give you the details!
I didn’t want to put all of the details in my post because I don’t want a million people going there and spoiling it! ;)
Wow – so beautiful! And I’m actually surprised that there are places without Internet today!
I know, it was amazing! There were a few resort type places with wifi but it was slow and crappy, which made me happy as I really didn’t want the temptation there!
Lauren,
In a place as beautiful as this, I’m pretty sure I could ignore the Internet even if it was available.
Stunning beaches, cliffs, beaches…
Have you done any climbing in Thailand?
darrell
darrell recently posted..A Piece of Paradise in the South Okanagan
those pictures say it all
=)
ayan recently posted..Nacpan.Narratives
Yep, I felt so sad writing this post. I want to be back there now!
sounds like a paradise. beautiful photos!
Memographer recently posted..EuroTrip 2012: Germany and Austria
Thank you! It really was like paradise…
So gorgeous and peaceful.
I wanna be there :)
DebbZ recently posted..Hong Kong: Food Porn
It really was. I want to be there too! Especially when it’s so cold in Europe right now…
Want to go NOW.
Me too!
This is just the way I’d like beaches to be, no sight of plastic,cans,cartons,diesel guzzling speed boats… and tourists!
Me too! It was especially nice after a couple of weeks in Phi Phi…
Lauren, this sounds AMAZING – I hope this post doesn’t get too popular, or your paradise may end up getting spoiled if people read it and decide to head there!
The photos are gorgeous and I wish I was there now, instead of in my school pretending to do work.
Waegook Tom recently posted..The Problem With English Education in Korea
I know, I really agonised over whether to write this post… Or whether to write it and not put the name of the island. But Dave wrote a post with the name in it so it seemed a bit pointless!
Sounds gorgeous! I saw mentions of Koh Yao Noi when I was planning my Thailand trip last year, but decided to skip it. Totally kicking myself now, obviously.
Edna recently posted..On getting engaged in Paris, and what’s next
…Just an excuse to go back though, hey?
Absolutely! I might be heading to back to SEAsia sooner than expected so another trip to Thailand is def in the cards!
Edna recently posted..Seeing Paris by Segway
Looks amazing. Now on my bucket list.
No! Take it off! Nobody else is allowed to go! ;)
Yup, Koh Yao Noi is one of the best. I know the exact beach you are talking about. One of the few islands in Thailand that still retains it’s culture and has more locals than tourists.
Alex recently posted..Four Interesting Facts About Thai Culture
You summed it up perfectly! :)
It looks so gorgeous!! I want to be out of the rain and the wind and there now! x
Jen recently posted..Champagne, Carousels And Stumbling Off Boats…
Sigh… Me too!
I liked Koh Yao Noi too! I loved scooting around to get some yummy pad thai or banana roti and the locals were so friendly. Unfortunately the weather was definitely not as good as you seemed to have it, but I guess that’s what happens when you go in low season.
Julia recently posted..A Day at Ocean Park, Hong Kong
I don’t know – it looks pretty amazing to me!
Laurence recently posted..Free music at France’s Fête de la Musique
We talked about maybe finding a beach where there was no internet… but then we got nervous about being unplugged for that long. =/ I wish we had taken the plunge while we were in Thailand, though! This place looks gorgeous and relaxing (my favorite combination).
Christy @ Technosyncratic recently posted..Tulips and Windmills in Holland: A Photo Essay
So cool that you were able to find such an unknown place and get the break you needed. I’m not sure I’d be able to go for a week without the Internet. :)
Cheryl recently posted..An Ode To Lonesome George.
Looks gorgeous! I’m not much of a beach person, but I suddenly loved them when I was in SE Asia a few months ago. I didn’t make it to Thailand, but Andy and I might have to check this out when we do get to Thailand someday.
Ali recently posted..Stormy Days and Fishy Nights in Bora Bora
Great tip Lauren – and the perfect antidote to touristy Thailand.
Natasha von Geldern recently posted..Destination Portugal: Lisbon day trips
I haven’t experienced the Thai islands yet and was wondering if any exist that aren’t overcrowded with tourists – this looks like my idea of heaven!
Andrea recently posted..Travel Memories: USA Part 2 – Busch Gardens, Tampa Bay
It looks beautiful! But a week without internet? Yikes!
Turtle recently posted..How to make being a spy boring
Thanks for the info Lauren. We found an incredible deal so are heading there in November. Which accommodation did you stay at?
Thanks. Robbie
Hi Robbie,
I stayed at Tabeak Guesthouse.
Hi Lauren,
Great info, thanks! My husband and I, along with our 2 year old, are headed to the area in January and considering Yao Noi…in your opinion, it is a good place to bring little kids?
Well, it’s very quiet, very few backpackers, not really much of a party island, so yes! Although, aside from the beach there may not be too much to keep them busy/entertained.
Hi Lauren, Did you not miss a swimming pool staying at the guesthouse. We are really undecided about where to stay. We don’t want to pay a fortune but travelling so far for only 3 nights before we head off to Karon Beach we want it to be absolutely right. Any advice, please ?
Hi Debbie,
No I didn’t miss a swimming pool… the guesthouse is literally less than 10 metres from the sea. And having a swimming pool isn’t really too much of a priority for me ;). I work and travel so this wasn’t a holiday for me, but somewhere to work. If you think you’ll miss a pool then there are a lot nicer hotels on the island that have one — and I suspect if you do want a pool you probably travel a little fancier than I do and you probably wouldn’t want to stay somewhere with only cold water showers!
Dear Lauren,
just found your friendly and nice blog. We are going to Ya Noi in 12 days for a week, we have been there before 3 years ago.
So any hint is welcome (places to eat, scooter rental…). I love the place for the same reason as you do, I admit we are staying at the six senses resort, but we admire the simple things just as much (so, we, too are not really in need for a warm shower, cold is a relative term in Thailand, anyway) we just can not stand the main stream places, with the usual bunch of smart phone carrying people , ruining and wasting items from breakfast buffets…you get the picture. So for us it is usually high end or a canoe and a tent (or both combined!)
After that we go to Ko Kood, which is also a very nice place near the Cambodia border.
Granted, you want any hints from us – ask for it!
After nearly a year in Thailand, the first I heard of Koh Yao Noi was from my Thai friend just last week. “It’s my dream vacation,” she told me. So I was all scheduled to go, but then I got a substitute teaching job in Trat, and am now spending my last two weeks in Koh Kood – which I would describe in exactly the same way! Have you been here (Koh Kood)?
Jessica J. Hill recently posted..Holy Cows in India – Weekly Photo Challenge: Culture
I have not been to Koh Kood, but I had a friend stay there over the past few weeks and he seemed to love it. It’s definitely on my list now :-)
Hi Lauren,
Wooow, what a beautifull place. My fiance and me are getting married in June :D We really want to go to Koh Yao Noi. I was wondering is June a good time to visit this place? Or is the waether terrible?
Thank You
Kim
Hi Kim,
I haven’t been in June, but I was on Koh Yao Noi a couple of weeks ago and there was a thunderstorm pretty much daily. Given that April is at the very start of the rainy season and June is right in the middle of it, I’d imagine it would be likely to rain every single afternoon you’re there. Maybe check average weather conditions for Phuket, Krabi and Koh Phi Phi and average it out?
I loved the rain and thunderstorms, but if you’re looking for a relaxing, sunny, sunbathing, beach holiday you probably would be best to avoid Yao Noi.